This topic contains 30 replies, has 8 voices, and was last updated by 
Guy Paquin 2 years, 7 months ago.
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Like most folks I have had all sorts of difficulty with lift, even to the point of models coming loose before they finish.
Gave up on using brims, either drawn on part, or created in AM, they just did not work. The brim would be stuck, but the part still lifted. This convinced me that there was not a solution going to be coming from this direction.
The only time I would use a brim now, is when the part footprint is so small that it is obvious it is needed.
CEL seemed to have a play with bed temps with each new release of AM, so I thought I would have a crack at it myself. For some little time now I have been running the usual software defaults except for bed temp. For CEL PLA I use 75 first layer and 55 thereafter. Works for me. I expect to print something the size of a Pi case with no lift and clean up of the base.
I have also taken to designing parts with a 0.8 chamfer on the base. I find this eliminates the bit of flash that occurs on the base, so NO clean up is required on the bottom.
I see some pics that look look they have sharp corners. I was told years ago by a laser cutter not to give him anything with a sharp corner as it would burn. His explanation was, that at a sharp corner his machine would hesitate for a moment and burn the material. He was happy with even a 0.5 radius as his machine could whizz round it without hesitation.
Based on this I never design a part for the Robox with a sharp corner. Even that 0.5 tends to look sharp without having a tendency to over run and look a bit ordinary as it sometimes can do.
Nigel
I’ve never been able to get ABS to print flat, and I sometimes have trouble with the Robox PLA. But I printed this the other day with Colorfabb XT and it came out perfectly flat. No modeling tricks or cleanup. That is a great material!
I find the same results and wouldn’t worry about the fears regarding blown seals. It prints so flipping well I don’t want to use anything else anymore.
No need for brim, adhesion is great, accuracy superb, finish perfect, flat bottoms - I honestly am so impressed with ColorFabb XT.
I used to use CEL ABS exclusively and found that the parts were brittle and often cracked across the ‘grain’ or layers with any amount of handling. The XT bonds really well and is substantially harder to deform or break. If I were CEL I’d ditch their proprietory materials and use the ColorFabb filaments exclusively, the results are just so much better.
Sounds great. What material settings (various temperatures etc) are you using for ColorFabb XT ? The same as for the CEL materials ?
I use the settings from this thread:
http://www.cel-robox.com/forums/topic/colorfabb-xt-plapha/page/4/#post-12120
@pongoloid did you mean to post this link instead?
http://www.cel-robox.com/forums/topic/colorfabb-xt-plapha/page/3/#post-11997
the screenshots I posted were of T-Glase rather than XT but if it works with XT that’s great!
Moh
@mistsoul Oops! Yes, that’s what I meant to post.
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