Search Results for 'cura'

[3peaksliteParticipant]

Hi Dave

Are these the setting you use with Cura 14.12.1 on your Robox?

 

Curious as still not getting great results!

 

Cheers

Steve

 

[azriParticipant]

So I decided to design the part that was damaged as shown below but i do not have a 3d printer to print it. So i guess ill just attach the stl file if anyone wants to print a spare gear for their extruder(the plastic gear). The dimensions are just based on my measurements and may not be 100 percent accurate. Do note also that the 3d printer may not be able to print as precisely.

• This reply was modified 8 hours, 44 minutes ago by  azri.
• This reply was modified 8 hours, 43 minutes ago by  azri.
• This reply was modified 8 hours, 42 minutes ago by  azri.

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well where can i start ,i don’t really write mini reviews or my thoughts on things but i think i would with the robox ,its blown me away, up until the start of december id never touched a 3d printer let alone owned one. a lot of pestering of the wife and she decided to buy me one for christmas (nice one wifey) so money was paid and then the wait till the blue box shipped ,i received it at the start of december unpacked it ,set it up and then looked for something to print ,like most people i tried to print the pyramid ,i printed it on draft and it came out ok apart from that little dog mess that we all seem to get on the top lol,my initial thoughts were that it was a nicely designed machine and i couldn’t wait to get printing some more ,so for my next print i made the colorfabb spool holder and spool winder both came out pretty well using the cel green abs and i was feeling confident id bought the right machine ,so then i got my christmas orders off the wife ,15 napkin rings in gold by christmas day this is where the fun started as no sooner as id started to try and print on the fine settings as noticed quality of the print seemed worse than on draft setting (very strange) so i tried a few more then wondered if i had a blockage or fault with the head so tired to do a purge and sure enough the .3 nozzle had a blockage .i asked around on the community and got some helpful responses ,but unfortunately the head needed to go back ,chris white was very helpful and after a few attempts and exchanged emails chris said i needed to send the head back ,luckily i was sent a replacement head out very quickly and was able to commence printing in time to fulfil the wifes orders ,so you might wonder what is the point of this post well in the time I’ve been using robox and also the last week or so using the automaker update with cura (guys and girls its ace ) I’ve started to understand more about robox and although im still a novice i feel that im starting to understand and feel the printer better which in turn is helping me to produce better prints using the robox .ive exclusively been printing everything in pla and results of the prints to me seem to be a lot lot better .so i hope these few words will encourage people like me who are new to 3d printing and are having a few hiccups to stick with it be patient with cel customer support and carry on because as I’ve found the learning curve can be steep but its also very rewarding

smitty

[ClickyParticipant]

Great! Do you maybe want to upload pictures to thingiverse and add it to ‘I printed this thing’?

I was planning to print whole thing at once as see if it is better to be printed that way, but…

I was told that new version of AM with Cura makes far better support - so, not going to happen now until it is release to everyone.

And, in the mean time, my printer died (or at least heated bed did) - so it might not happen for weeks now.

Maybe now I have less distraction from printing - I’ll do some more design work! (and coding)

[robyneilParticipant]

Thanks for the quick response. I’ll try out SoldWorks since it is compatible with AutoMaker’s import..also to see if scaling is better on it. On Sketchup, I noticed that I have to scale height by 10% as well when using PLA Draft. But knowing now how to adjust for, I get good accurate prints now.

Manifesting ideas is still difficult, but at least we're one step closer...

Hi everyone. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays!

I’m new here and just got my Robox…9 days running. I’m from California as you can tell from the topic title. So far very happy with it…big fan. I have an AutoMaker question. Does anyone know how to change AutoMaker’s default units of measure from mm to inches?

I’m using SketchUp Make to create models but I notice that if I use “inches” in SketchUp, the model I import in AutoMaker has to be scaled to approximately ~2540% (1in=25.4mm) to get it to the actual size intended. If I use “mm” as the units of measure in SketchUp and export to .stl or .obj, I have no problems importing to AutoMaker and is scaled correctly in the model viewer at 100%. I’ve seen forum members mention inch units in postings so there’s probably a way to do it.

I have either exporting in mm or scaling 2540% as a workaround, but just wanted to test whether changing the units in AutoMaker itself fixes the import of .stl or .obj that has inches as units of measure. I don’t know if this a problem in the file format or in AutoMaker. If AutoMaker, I’ll gladly file a support ticket. Either case, I think AutoMaker should handle units of measure conversions automatically.

I attached the test models (24,5mm x 24.5mm x 6.35mm with a 12.7mm bore) I’m using to test accuracy and calibration.

Other Notes: PLA Draft Print is accurate only on the first few layers of the print with a width of ~25.4mm. Up to ~3% Warping and shrinking on the width on subsequent layers as expected I think. The 12.7mm bore has shrunk by about ~7%. Printing at 107% the bore is a perfect fit for 0.5in or 12.7mm aluminum tubings, but the outer width increased by 4-6% . Hoping to get Cura slicer for Christmas or soon to test how much better slices are with AutoMaker 1.01.

 

• This topic was modified 2 days, 23 hours ago by  robyneil.

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Manifesting ideas is still difficult, but at least we're one step closer...

[DavidParticipant]

@StreatSi Meh… it merely looks amazing with a solid wall and ultra detailed, blob free sides. How very dull.

Ummm… how do I get a copy of this amazing new AM emailed to me…ahem. Not that I’m that bothered about it. Hey, maybe CEL are going to release it on Christmas Day? You know, as a sort of surprise Christmas present for us all? (fat chance).

I guess I’ll have to bide my time and wait like everyone else, hey, on the bright side at least my clean up tools are still getting plenty of use :0

@dave Thank you so much for sharing your tips on nozzle settings and multipliers, you have single handedly propelled my printing from mediocre to pretty darn good with your advice - I was still blissfully unaware of the ability to set custom nozzle widths in AM so thank you for that tip too. With the new Cura slicing engine these can only get better still. Hats off to you.

• This reply was modified 4 days ago by  David.

[daveParticipant]

Yup, that’s slic3r, there is a reason I never managed to create the bracelet with slic3r What it does is ignore lines that are lesser then the minimum nozzle width and add extra points here and there where it’s slightly thicker, so if the border of the bracelet is say 0.401mm at some place you get a extra blob there and if it’s 0.399mm it just ignores that part because “it can’t be made” with a 0.4mm width, Cura does allow this and handles it correctly making it a much better candidate for printing, especially for this kind of stuff If you got the new software you can just print if with 1 perimeter, 0.40 nozzle width, no top, no bottom, no infill (0.00), no supports and no brim!

[daveParticipant]

Yes, it would be nice if we would have a Robox specific problem solving / quality increasing guide like this one, we can even borrow from it: http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide

I’m not an expert, I just try out a lot of settings to see what they do and my idea about filament multiplier is the amount of filament it relatively extrudes compared to the default, so your description is pretty accurate. But if we have this page we can create paragraphs for each setting and add our experiences to it

[daveParticipant]

@3peakslite: Are you using the new version of AM with Cura? It looks like you are using the old version with Slic3r. Just choosing draft will never work with the bracelet model (that’s why you have the solid infill in the center instead of a hole, you need to print with 1 perimeter, no infill, no top and no bottom) and I never got it to print right in Slic3r due to it’s bugs so you might want to retry with the new version of AM for this model. The honeycomb infill is a setting in custom profiles for infill, try it out, it’s not that hard! While there just create a custom profile with 0.30 layer height only using the 0.3 nozzle for the bracelet, the 0.8mm nozzle is just too big for these small details.

@pelgrim: A guide would be nice but every model got it’s own perfect settings, I don’t think there’s a way to have a guide for every type of model but a decent explanation of the tweak-able parameters would be nice for people uncomfortable with just trying stuff out

It’s not a magic box but there are many factors that influence your print; Material, calibration, nozzle temperature, bed temperature, ambient temperature, cooling, the slicer, slicing settings, the model itself, whether you need supports or not, infill needed for strength or filament saving, etc. All these combinations make it impossible to create a “one-setting-fits-all” profile, the best they can do is create a profile for the most common use-cases and materials and a good explanation of what the custom profile settings do. I should add some info to Roboxing, tried it last time but couldn’t find a way to register or something (found it now and registered) but I agree, just haven’t gotten around to do that yet

[daveParticipant]

Really happy with this release, there are some minor bugs but it’s definitely a great improvement, love Cura already, so much better. Hope you guys can join soon to share your awesome prints!

[daveParticipant]

Yes, the bracelet is nice, it really is awesome to see how flexible this shape is, you can use it as a rubber band if you like.

My ‘experience’ is limited, this is my first 3D printer and the only experience I’ve gained is through trial and error with the Robox. With just calibrations you can have nice results but in my opinion it’s only some minor work to tweak the profiles to your models producing optimal results, this bracelet for example can’t be printed with a default profile because you need to print it without infill, 1 perimeter, no top layers, no bottom layers (as instructed at thingiverse); Making a custom profile for it isn’t a lot of work (about a minute) and it will get much better results. For generic prints I tend to ignore the 0.8mm nozzle and always use the 0.3mm, even for the first layer and infill on smaller models, this drastically improves the accuracy and tidiness of the final model. Besides that some experience helps you with getting better results, say you print something with 25% infill and 3 solid layers, you notice there are some dents on the top of the printed model, next time you try it with 5 solid top layers and it’s gone; So I usually go with 2 or 3 solid bottom layers (these melt a bit so they look nice with just 2 or 3) and 4 or 5 top solid layers; Other models need 100% infill if it needs more strength, if you print a bit you will learn this yourself and you will use a custom profile most of the time.