robyneil

Thanks @click. I’ll try them out. I’ve been collecting breakouts, components, and sensors…just barely started.

@phivu3d Thanks for the detailed description on steps. I do have acrylic paints to try it with. Will let you know how it works out.

I like the geeky stuff too, but fortunately there’s not much to it. Both the electromagnet and laser beam break sensor are on breakout boards. They already have pull-up resistors on the breakouts so no need to solder external resistors on a prototyping board to ensure there are no floating pins. I just hooked them up directly to Arduino with…[Read more]

I use MeshMixer mostly to fix minimum thickness (click wrench/screwdriver icon under the “Print” page “Model Repaired” button…”Inspect” works same way but it usually crashes for me), “Close Cracks”, and also to convert to solid using “Make Solid” for everything else that’s hard to fix (use “Accurate” and the max 512 settings) .

I fix models…[Read more]

That looks amazing. Did you happen to use XTC-3D smoother, brass powder, and shoe polish? What are the print dimensions?

I have an unopened box of XTC-3D. I’ve been printing things pretty big around 8 to 12 inches just to get all the details and make sure it prints right with support material. I’m planning to use it on a printed Arbalest…[Read more]

Correction, the PCTPE settings were from @edthehorse:

http://www.cel-robox.com/forums/topic/taulman-pctpe/page/2/

The T-Glase settings were from @bhudson:

http://www.cel-robox.com/forums/topic/t-glass/

Thank you both,

@robyneil

PCTPE Original Settings (I believe these are @bhudson‘s Material original profile):

Filament: 1.75mm
Filament multipler: 0.90
Feed rate multiplier: 1.00
Bed (1st layer): 60
Bed: 50
Nozzle (1st layer): 230
Nozzle: 215
Ambient: 38

 

PCTPE Drooploop Settings:

Filament: 1.75mm
Filament multipler : 0.70
Feed rate multiplier: 4.00
Bed (1st layer):…[Read more]

As promised here’s a video of the print. Sorry the first 3 minutes was out of focus so I just took it out.

I forgot to mention that “Make Solid” will make a copy with suffix (solid). The original model will not be visible. You can delete the original model from the small modal window “Object Browser” when you are done with the settings. Delete original before you export the model.

@poju, maybe this will work:

1) Import assembled model with all parts aligned into MeshMixer

2) Click on “Edit”

3) Click on “Make Solid”.

4) The display would look morphed or eroded when it welds and merges all the parts so play around with the following settings:

a) Increase “Sold Accuracy” from 128 up to 512

b) Increase “Mesh Density” from…[Read more]

I’ll see if I can get a video of it print tonight…if not tomorrow.

@poju Sorry I misunderstood. I’m glad you got it sorted out. The link you provide will come in handy someday too. Thanks.

Just found:

https://blog.adafruit.com/2014/07/31/split-large-designs-into-printable-parts/

Try free MeshMixer Plane Cut under the “Edit” tool bar. I’ve used it to cut with X,Y, or Z planes or any angle with my mouse. You can also make holes.

OR

Use any software to do the following:

I can’t find example where SOLIDWORKS was used to create pegs with matching holes on the separate part but…[Read more]

Thanks @datman

It is just a preference. I guess to me it is more like different ways you complete a scaled modeled kit/build from Tamiya. You can either:

1) Clip the plastic parts “as is” from frame, glue them together, and put on decals.

OR

2) Clip the plastic parts from frame, sand the nubs left out from clipping and smoothen them, spray paint each part…[Read more]