My gallery of (mostly) functional prints!

[pelgrim @pelgrim]

The slightly adjusted design with the holes, this could be printed on robox
doesn’t look all that well with all the pieces laying around.

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

java (EE), JavaFX, HTML, GIS) programmer, database wizard, framework inventor, looking for a job ! http://roboxing.com/wizards

[Clicky @clicky]

That looks quite close to what I suggested. Now I understand what you mean by printing rods won’t be the best as they have to lay on the bed. Would support work for those rounder shapes?

I’m definitively looking forward seeing it in real print. Especially O’s and how support would ruin help them.

[pelgrim @pelgrim]

Yeah, I love designing, how functional and/or printable they are is “debatable”
Will worry about that when I actually start printing with robox, some things still need to evolve on robox/AM.

java (EE), JavaFX, HTML, GIS) programmer, database wizard, framework inventor, looking for a job ! http://roboxing.com/wizards

[3peakslite @3peakslite My Robox is a Blue Commercial Version]

Great stuff Dave!

 

I have not been able to get any good prints off mine, had it 3 months very disappointed.

Support have offered to take it back & check it but said will give it another 2 weeks tinkering with the settings else it will go back!

One of my main issues is one of the nozzles catches the layer as it passes over & breaks it free.

I think the paper calibration set-up is just not accurate enough.

Cheers

Steve

[dave @dave]

Hey Steve (@3peakslite),

Sorry to hear that, I’ve spend quite a bit of time tweaking the settings to get decent results and if your calibrations are incorrect problems might occur messing up the print, key here is that you print the same print over and over again (or at least the first 1 or 2 layers, cancel after that) so you can see what happens when you tweak a value so you can adjust accordingly.

The paper calibration isn’t too precise, I’ve had better results manually tweaking the nozzle height (in your Robox settings -> Head -> Z-numbers, lower number = closer to the bed). If you are too far away you won’t get a flat surface and the first layer won’t stick very well, if it’s too low it might be under-extruding due to the bed blocking your nozzle causing filament to clog up in your head making a mess in layer 2+3 where it creates higher surfaces where your head will bump into in the layers after that causing your print to break free of the bed, ideally you tweak the nozzle height to be in between, the best way to do is probably is by taking a simple print, printing it with a specific setting, cancel after the first layer and adjust until it’s just right; Make sure that before you do this you’ve successfully calibrated the nozzle opening as well since this influences this process. I’ve also noticed that most filaments are over-extruding using the Robox, by creating a manual profile for these filaments with a Multiplier of 0.90 instead of 1.00 I’ve had much better results. If you mess around with mainly these settings (make sure you don’t take too big steps tweaking so you won’t damage your printhead) you will probably be able to get good results. I just received some new parts for my printer (I unintentionally fried my extruder and main PCB during a repair :X) and I have the new beta software, first prints were crap but after finding out the right values again it prints pretty good.

Here a picture of my latest test print, printed using the latest software and with the cura slicing engine. I can still tweak the settings a bit more but it already looks pretty good.

Cheers,
Dave

[dave @dave]

Another AM Cura print, this time a print I couldn’t do properly with Slic3r, a stretchy bracelet. Slic3r made a mess of it all the time, merging lines together, blobs, breaks all the time, Cura did it right the first time, looks great and only 25 minutes to print (no infill, no top, no bottom, 1 perimeter, 0.30 layer height and 0.40 perimeter width).

• This reply was modified 6 days, 12 hours ago by  dave.

[pelgrim @pelgrim]

I really like that bracelet print !

dave, can you estimate, how much difference does your experience make in these prints ?
I mean by that, is it your impression with just simple calibrations and without tweaking the settings
AM/cura will produce similar quality ?

java (EE), JavaFX, HTML, GIS) programmer, database wizard, framework inventor, looking for a job ! http://roboxing.com/wizards

[StreatSi @streatsi]

@dave stupid question really but the 0.4 perimeter width is done with the large nozzle right? oh and is the braclet from thingiverse?
also is that the black color fabb? got to get me some of that after crimbo. thinking of getting a couple of their tester pack as you get 10 different colours pla or 4 pecial samples for £15 a pack which is excellent.

[dave @dave]

Yes, the bracelet is nice, it really is awesome to see how flexible this shape is, you can use it as a rubber band if you like.

My ‘experience’ is limited, this is my first 3D printer and the only experience I’ve gained is through trial and error with the Robox. With just calibrations you can have nice results but in my opinion it’s only some minor work to tweak the profiles to your models producing optimal results, this bracelet for example can’t be printed with a default profile because you need to print it without infill, 1 perimeter, no top layers, no bottom layers (as instructed at thingiverse); Making a custom profile for it isn’t a lot of work (about a minute) and it will get much better results. For generic prints I tend to ignore the 0.8mm nozzle and always use the 0.3mm, even for the first layer and infill on smaller models, this drastically improves the accuracy and tidiness of the final model. Besides that some experience helps you with getting better results, say you print something with 25% infill and 3 solid layers, you notice there are some dents on the top of the printed model, next time you try it with 5 solid top layers and it’s gone; So I usually go with 2 or 3 solid bottom layers (these melt a bit so they look nice with just 2 or 3) and 4 or 5 top solid layers; Other models need 100% infill if it needs more strength, if you print a bit you will learn this yourself and you will use a custom profile most of the time.

[StreatSi @streatsi]

just doing an awesome vase from thingiverse..

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:390713

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[dave @dave]

@streatsi: Nope, smaller nozzle, I rarely use the large nozzle, too clunky for me You can change the nozzle width for the 0.3 nozzle up to 0.6 in a custom profile. This one was printed using Colorfabb PLA/PHA Black; Really like the Colorfabb PLA, I’d recommend just getting a reel, the tester parts are a bit on the short side if you want to print something bigger as just a bracelet or mini-skull I’ve got the PLA colour testers as well but I barely use them since I’m always afraid I run out of filament mid-print

[dave @dave]

@streatsi: Just a discount tip: You can get 10% discount at Colorfabb if you sign up for 3dhubs and print a small test print for them to show them you can in fact 3d print; I ordered 4 spools last time for a nice deal price (Halloween value pack) and had around 15 EUR discount through this + free shipping because 4 spools

[Author]

Posts