Edmond Dyogi

@chrisyt

Your spiral profile worked well but something weird happened.

If you look at the photo I uploaded, the robox mug on the right printed very well with polymaker pc-plus clear. The other vase to the left was also printed with polymaker pc-plus with your profile but it came out cloudy. Any ideas?

By the way, I tested both with boiling w…[Read more]

Okay, understood. Thanks! 🙂

Select your profile AND click spiral print box.

@chrisyt

I was about to try you profile for spiral mug. Just one question, if I use your profile, do I not click the spiral tick box?

@bhudson

Do you have any print profiles for the HT?

@chrisyt

Thanks for the clarification. Crystal clear. Looks like my issue was there was not enough bottom layers. As to the temp, my polymaker PC-Plus is already being printed at 255 degrees. I don’t think I can go any higher. I’ll try your profile.

@bhudson I’ve just tried a few spiral prints. I used polymaker PC-Plus (because it was already loaded).

I tried the mug that available in the article but it failed. It started printing something in the middle. The mug was already hollowed out but the article said not to use a hollowed out model but a solid model.

Anyway I tried printing so…[Read more]

Is Automaker 2.01.01 a new version?

Has anyone tried the spiral printing?

@bhudson I maybe exaggerating the brittleness a bit. But to give you an example, I printed the fan shroud for my E3D V6 (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1165614) and whenever I try to put the shroud on it just snaps at the section where the fan attaches too. I’ve tried printing with 100% infill and its the same issue. With ABS I don’t have th…[Read more]

@bhudson I’ve been printing with XT for the most part but I find that XT is extremely brittle. When I print anything that will be subjected to stress it just shatters. On of the reasons why I am experimenting with PC-Plus. In your experience, is HT stronger and less brittle than XT? I just got my hands on some nGen but I believe that is eve…[Read more]

@bhudson My next question is the same as @saiken, he just beat me to it. He he.

I’d rather try the settings others have tried as I have been getting a lot of mechanical parts failures (extruders and heads) on my kickstarter edition Robox. I’m not as brave as others in terms of experimenting.

I’ve been trying PC Plus as well. On PEI I was getting adhesion at the start then warping just pulls it off the bed. I used Buildtak on a spare PEI and I got too much adhesion. But I was getting SEVERE delamination. Will increasing nozzle temperature help control delamination?

Hi guys.

I am getting a very similar problem. When I try to load any filament, the gears grab it and almost immediately the loading stops and I hear a loud repeating clicking sound (I think its the drive gear as it tries to push the filament and then slip). I can run the extruder backwards to remove the filament. I did the following.

C…[Read more]

@matthewhajicek Yup, the new 12v cable fixed the issue.

I just purchased a few polymaker PC-plus filaments. This is probably a stupid question, but if I use the PC-plus filament using the settings provided by Robox, my warranty is not going to get voided, right? 🙂

Oh, I forgot to add, I had not had any slippage errors before. And my head is also brand new, by the way, it was replaced around the same time as the filament drive.

Hi guys. I also developed a filament slip problem. Here’s the full story.

I just printed a 14-hour long print which was successful (had around 10 successful prints prior) and I decided to change filaments (I only use colorfabb XT exclusively, from blue to red) and then I had a failure to eject, did the eject stuck filament routine and was a…[Read more]

@pete I’ve uploaded a video on you tube, here’s the link.

I hope this will explain everything. I’ve ordered machine oil and PTFE grease to lubricate the x and y rods and the z axis threads. Don’t know if it will help but its good for maintenance anyway. Oh, the squeaking has not come back. I’ve pri…[Read more]