This topic contains 41 replies, has 10 voices, and was last updated by 
Mika 6 months, 3 weeks ago.
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@dodgydave80 Yes. I’ve noticed that as well. As my Robox is at eye height I tend to get ninjaflex off the reel all way to the ground (and back again). If I need longer length for the print and not sure if I would be there to assist it (add pull more material off the reel and let it hang down) I put an object in parallel to the left side of Robox (usually just bottle with alcohol) and let another length to the ground and back on the ‘other side’ of that object. BTW It didn’t help last night. But I’ll start fresh today or tomorrow evening again.
@dodgydave80 You may want to open a support ticket for that extruder. I suspect the sensor isn’t tightened fully.
I operate two Betas and four Production Robox.
I am the US/Canada Technical Support engineer for the Robox.
See my 3D Hub site at https://www.3dhubs.com/phoenix/hubs/benSo far this post helped the most: after setting slip detection to 100 I didn’t observe a single error.
M909 S100
I didn’t save it and next ‘reboot’ of Robox is going to revert it back to ’10’. But it seems that occasional issue with ninjaflex is somehow ‘smoothed’ by higher value in there.
I have played with yellow NinjaFlex for over a week now and tried to find good settings for it, but it seems quite challenging. Started from the starter profile. Is there any step by step guide in which order all the parameters should be tuned? That kind of instruction could save a lot of time from beginners to 3D printing like me. Also some common symptoms of bad prints and related tuning would be nice to know. For example in picture attached. What would be the parameters I should tune to get rid of gaps lines? Should I increase the temperature (it is in the middle of the manufacturers recommendation)? Or should I decrease the speed (it is already very slow when checking the specs)? Or should I change the extrusion width (that’s very nasty parameter; some low values seems performing better than higher values, but can’t really say which is good since also the time of the day feels to matter meaning that same parameters not producing the same result every time)?
Seems we have better (more thick printing) paper (lots of forest and wood) here in Finland. 🙂
3D printing quality improved a lot after re-calibrating z-axis with more thin piece of paper (receipt of beer bought from local grocery shop). I tried to use my normal 80 g/m^2 printer paper for the calibration earlier.
Documentation could be improved related to this, or even the calibration paper slips included in a box.
It’s damn slow, but finally got some decent yellow NinjaFlex prints out. 100 % cooling fan and enough temperature. Pink is PLA and green is the real Lego.
ps. Seems this video has almost all info needed, but missing only 100 % cooling part and bed without heating: https://youtu.be/fTJz6vMvtJ8
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