Start up guide needs work, as does the printer.

[King Pure @king-pure]

I’ve just spent a painful couple of hours trying to get the Robox to accept filament.

Eventually got there and thought I had the nozzle calibrated.

On stopping the print and opening the case, I noticed the filament tube had detached.

I am amazed, given that it happens so readily, that this made it through the beta phase un-noticed.

If it is a new issue then I have no idea how they managed to print my carriage retaining clip.

Is there anything temporary I can use until the workaround shows up?

 

KP

[Don Colley @doncolley]

<ul style=”font-weight: 200; color: #444444;”>
<li style=”font-weight: inherit; font-style: inherit;”>Read “High torque extruder needs improved bowden connection” in recent posts

[Rob @bespokeproductdesign]

@king-pure just cut 7-8mm off the end of the Bowden tube where it disconnected and push it back into the pressure fitting. . . its not a permanent fix but might work for a while.

[King Pure @king-pure]

My bad, Don, I can’t have read that as carefully as I might’ve as I got it whilst travelling back from work.

Not sure I’m gonna go with that, Rob.

Bit worried it might cause other problems.

I think I’m gonna use a small amount of impact adhesive on the outside of the tube.

Fingles crossed…….

[pelgrim @pelgrim]

We’re working with a few people on that guide,
take a look here,
perhaps write a bit about your experience fixing that tube.

java (EE), JavaFX, HTML, GIS) programmer, database wizard, framework inventor, looking for a job ! http://roboxing.com/wizards

[gid @gid]

@king-pure : It’s fine… cutting a short piece off the tube and connecting it is a standard fix CEL have been advising since beta. I think there might even be a solutions article about it… hang on a sec…

(You wait. Time passes)

Yup. Here we go: “If the Bowden tube has come loose in some cases you can trim a few mm off the end of the tube and insert it again but if it keeps coming loose it may have damaged the connector.” — https://robox.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/1000125105-fit-or-change-bowden-tube-and

I think you’re more likely to make a mess with glue than anything else, whereas this fix might just make do until the retrofit part arrives.

Get a good sharp blade (not scissors) and make a clean straight cut across: the straighter (ie. so the length is perfectly even along the entire circumference of the tube) the better. Cut enough off so there’s no marks or scuffs from the previous fitting, but not enough to significantly change the length… so, probably a couple of centimetres is okay, but if you can do it in less than a centimetre, even better.

If the tube keeps popping, it’s probably a broken fitting. This is one of the issues… those stainless steel fittings aren’t all the same. They break/distort easily, and some just don’t hold the tube worth a damn at all. Others will hold it so tightly it’s incredibly hard to get the tube out. I’m guessing this variance is one reason CEL’s engineered this new custom design, which appears to be overkill if anything!

Tom Gidden -- Bristol, UK -- New Roboxer? Check out the wiki, and add yourself to the map! http://roboxing.com/user_locations

[Anonymous]

Don’t put glue any where near it. Won’t help, might get inside the tube / extruder. Either the bowden tube connector is a good one or it’s not. Or the end of your tube is all chewed and it can’t get a grip on it. Personally, I had to replace mine, and that still didn’t cure the problem.

[Chris White @chrisyt]

@king-pure I would go with @bespokeproductdesign ‘s tip - this won’t damage your Robox, and it should fix it until you receive the updated part. The main point to observe is that the torque should not be large enough to pop off the bowden tube if your head is working correctly, i.e. no blockages, and your needle opening calibration is correct. I would be very surprised if you can get any glue to stick to PTFE tube without a wetting agent/primer, and you’re probably setting yourself for other problems down the line - the new part will be with you as soon as we can get hold of it - it’s being produced as we speak…

[King Pure @king-pure]

Cheers chaps, one and all.

I cut off about 8mm, seems to have fixed it.

I say fixed…………

 

I’ve clicked just about every test and calibration there is but all I’m getting is ghosts with the second layer not attaching to the first meagre layer.

I’ve tried it on draft and the next one up.

Gonna have a proper look round the forum to trry to find an answer.

The alco wipes did nothing.

The extruder seems to stop producing plastic once the print starts.

• This reply was modified 2 months, 3 weeks ago by  King Pure.

[gid @gid]

Have you done a Purge Materials? If so, what’s it look like? (Pics or it didn’t happen)

Also, what are your numbers (X, Y, Z, B) in the Head panel?

Tom Gidden -- Bristol, UK -- New Roboxer? Check out the wiki, and add yourself to the map! http://roboxing.com/user_locations

[King Pure @king-pure]

Purge gives me 3 or 4 small dots from the .8 nozzle.

The .3 does diddley squat.

When I clean the .3 nozzle I see the lightest of mists sprayed out.

The .8 tries a little harder…..

 

[gid @gid]

Hngh. Sounds like it might not be working properly.

What about Calibrate Nozzle Opening? And the head figures?

Tom Gidden -- Bristol, UK -- New Roboxer? Check out the wiki, and add yourself to the map! http://roboxing.com/user_locations

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