This topic contains 20 replies, has 11 voices, and was last updated by 
Kent Hartland 8 months, 2 weeks ago.
-
Posts
-
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:18479
I did not scale it and I chose it, because it is quite difficult to print in my opinion. It has a lot of details and overhangs Also I have something usefull to give away instead of stupid overhang tests. I tried to print it with a brim of 3 which works well for adhesion. The tummy section of the frog always gets ruff at 0.1mm. Thanks for the help hagster.
That overhang is pretty steep. Maybe 70degrees. I havent personally trued anything that severe.
There are a few things you could try.
1. Turn on support.
2. Print 2 or 3 copies spaced out over the bed. This gives the overhang more time to cool and reduces the tendency to curl up.
3. Adjust the orientation so its front legs are in the air slightly. You could make a angled plinth for it to sit upon in order to do this.
4. Turn down the ambient temperature.
I try to find a setting for fine (0.1mm Layer height) that will do it well. I always get melted front feets or a rough surface on the belly. About click: I had a read through your thread, but as far as I see this the belly is not realy a bridge section (is it?).
About support: That is an interesting thing in this model. I tryed support but in the belly section it is completly useless. It seems that the parallel printed perimters in this section leed to upwards going layers so the nozzle touches it in the next layer (Warping). That seems to be the main issue here. With the thicker layers I don´t get that problem as the extrudate is only squished a bit but the head is not touched. Therefore a cooler bed seems to be contraproductive right? Any solutions for it on fine?
Another Issue I have with this print is that while printing the base layer the software seems to use the very low speed of 8mm/s for the base as I sayed but the base layer infill seems to be done much faster even though I have set infill to 8mm/s as well. Am I missing something there?
About hagsters idea: I am sorry but I do not get how puting the legs up and away from the plate would be any good. Can you explain it to me?
Last thanks for the help click and hagster.
- This reply was modified 9 months, 3 weeks ago by Lahminator Lahmi.
- This reply was modified 9 months, 3 weeks ago by Lahminator Lahmi.
- This reply was modified 9 months, 3 weeks ago by Lahminator Lahmi.
Hi all, been playing around with micro prints on my Box, creating a detail set for a resin model.
i have found using the original chroma green ( yeah i’ve not done a huge amount of printing yet) on the fine settings and letting Automaker arrange things with brim and raft, i have been able to do some fine prints. had issues with heat tearing the layers in places, but as soon as there was space between the individual parts and a sacrificial object to consume some time between layers, things turned out fine.
except the ones in the 1st pic they would go to molten at the very top so i left the door open during print taking the ambient down to 45 from 60.
There were 90 of each on 2 prints with 11 other taller parts, all was good and then i moved to Tauman bridge and then it all went ***’s up, and now i have to do a RMA :). oh well it was good whilst it lasted still have 80 odd parts to do yet.
the first 2 pictures are the parts the 3rd is my sacrificial parts, experiments am proud of the crane arm type bit took a while to get right.
I have some experience doing fine detail small parts on the Robox. And I’ve seen some success. Some examples attached.
Mainly the limiting factor with FDM is the thermal dissipation of the plastic, combined with heated bed/chamber, and so on. You can only dissipate heat so fast for a certain extruded amount, and as a result tiny parts don’t have enough time to dissipate all the heat (they remain very “soft” as it prints). This results in distorted, or bad prints.
Normally setting a maximum layer time in the cooling settings will address this, unfortunately being too aggressive here results in the head “hanging around” a LONG time on really small parts, this doesn’t help with cooling, it makes it WORSE. With larger parts, the head moves very slowly, but leaves the area, resulting in some time for the part to cool, but in a part that is only 2-3mm in size at certain layers the result is just a blob.
One way to solve this is to adjust the cooling settings in the profile in advanced mode. I’ve done this to generate my own 100micron profiles which resulted in the prints pictured in the attachments. As a result I’ve been able to realize fairly accurate, clean and detailed features that are quite small (one figurine I printed was a 40mm tall ballerina which had legs no more than 1.5mm in diameter in spots, but the legs came out smooth and fully detailed). The head was probably 2-3mm at it’s largest point, yet you could easily make out detail in the eyes, nose and mouth still (features which were probably 0.2mm to 0.3mm in size)
I don’t have the profiles with me now, at work. But I would be happy to post the specific settings it if would help.
That said, those settings only go so far. At some point you need a certain amount of “footprint” per layer, to get good quality (meaning each Z slice must take up a certain amount of area minimum). Since tiny parts don’t allow for this, the only way to solve it is to print more than one part at a time.
For example with the miniature figures shown, printing 2 of them at once helps, 3-4 helps a lot.
Normally on FFF/FDM printers this creates other problems such as excessive stringing, but luckily due to the needle valve extruder design on the robox it handles multi-part sheets VERY well. You do get very minor artifacts on the surface facing another part (from where the head leaves/enters the part at each layer) but they are quite minor and easily managed.
Anyway, fine detail like this can definitely be achieved on the Robox, but it does require some “tweaking” to get it just right.
And I do agree, if you are regularly doing super-fine prints in the sub-20mm overall size, SLA printing will definitely be more suited in the long-run. I’m actually working on a minimalist SLA printer design that can be printed on a robox and uses inexpensive parts (not needing a projector for example). And would only have a print area of say 50mm cube, but would be ideal for small high-detail prints.
But it might be 6 months in the making, so stay tuned 😉 lol.
Anyway, see attached examples
@glasswalker Great post! Thankyou - it serves as a great example of what can be achieved using custom profiles, and we’d love it if you can post them up here for all. This type of shared knowledge is exactly what we’d like this forum to showcase. Have you experimented with sub-100 micron layer heights too?
@glasswalker Please post the mentioned custom profile and the STLs of both shown models (dog and Clash of Clans figurine), so one can print comparison pieces. Also, what are your experiences in terms of different filament types using that printing profile?
Attached are my profiles that I use for my 3D Hub at:
https://www.3dhubs.com/ottawa/hubs/glasswalker
You can see more sample prints there.The objects I posted here are all from thingiverse at:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1394097
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1394139
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:38493For the profiles, I’ve extensively tested the 100micron and 200micron profile with CEL brand white PLA on smartreel. (using default PLA material profile from automaker).
I am still testing 50 micron, 300 micron, and 500 micron profiles. I do know the 500 micron has some issues (tries to extrude too fast) so am tweaking.
As a result I’m only posting my profiles for 100 and 200 for now. Will post the rest once they are tested properly.
I do also intend to test with ABS very shortly, as well as Colorfabb XT, and Polymaker PC-Plus as I plan to support both materials on my hub in the very near future.
That said, I expect I’ll have specific profiles on a per material basis. But we’ll see how well it ports over.
Finally I should also note I scaled these items. The dog I can’t remember exactly what scale I used (would have to eyeball it from the quarter), but the 2 dwarves I believe I scaled to 160% so just slightly under the stated 28mm scale in the post on thingiverse. As the default of those models is 18mm scale, and I’m printing a collection of minis to use with D&D alongside 28mm dungeon tiles.
-
This reply was modified 9 months ago by
Glasswalker.
-
This reply was modified 9 months ago by Glasswalker.
Uh-oh. Someone said “bespoke”!
Kent
Damn Solid Design
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
