Search Results for 'print quality'

[Dr. WooParticipant]

Could you please give us a size reference? This is by far the cleanest Robox PLA print I’ve seen so far. I could imagine though, that it is because of the straight lines.

Could you please provide the STL file and the print settings, the version of your Automaker and Slic3r? I’d really love to see whether my Robox is capable of producing the same quality.

Furthermore could you try to print this model (birdcage.stl only) in PLA on your printer (at 100% & 150% scale) and post it here? I’ve done that, and the result is quite disappointing.

• This reply was modified 4 weeks ago by  Dr. Woo.

[ClickyParticipant]

It is definitively quality I see with my Robox (with ABS). Maybe initial euphoria and too high expectations have subsided a bit and we learned to live with what we have. And I am not saying that’s bad or wrong or substandard.

Good calibration (and somehow I see you with couple of other people who post here are leading in it) help printed objects being quite correct. Please do continue to post your prints - they are definitively inspirational!

[BHudsonParticipant]

Glad you got it working. That is pretty normal for the pyramid print and looks like all of mine. If you want better results from fine features like the top of the pyramid, you need to add multiple parts to the print to let the layers cool a little between each layer application. As the features get smaller, the bad quality comes from the hot print head stirring up the previous layers while it is adding more layers.

[ronkeliParticipant]

I’m a bit sorry to join the club but I gave up on Robox! After third unit being mechanically faulty I decided to take my money back once I had a change. Maybe I’ll try again one day if the quality gets better but for now I’m trying to figure out what to get instead. Zmorph and Zotrax seem very potential assembled units, yet pricey. Felixprinter 3.0 or Velleman Vertex 8400 seem quite nice diy kits. Unfortunately it seems that you can’t buy cheap and good in one package.

[Anonymous]

I thought about the Zmorph too, but it’s fairly pricey once you add more nozzles. The other issue I have is the lack of reviews, there seems no user forums yet and no examples of good quality prints. I decided it was a bit more of risk than I was prepared to take, given I want a reliable printer. I know they made a Zmorph 1, but again there’s almost no info on it.

But please show us what it can do “out of the box”. If it can guarantee great prints then I would have another look at it.

Here are two washers that I have printed. The quality is poor. The top surfaces are uneven and bubbly. The vertical sides show delamination.

This is the code that was used to create them.

//Roy’s telescope washers

difference(){

cylinder(h = 2, r=12.5, center = true, $fn=100);

cylinder(h = 5, r=3, center = true, $fn=100);

}

difference(){

cylinder(h = 5, r=9, $fn=100);

cylinder(h = 5, r=3, $fn=100);

}

They were printed with 80% fill and were 23 slices. ABS was the filament used. Any ideas?

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[ChrisParticipant]

there is also new temperature settings for pla and i got new values for nozzle calibration too (witch didn’t work for me).. started to think that, if the temperature for pla is now lowered, printing fast with quality is not anymore recommended..? haven’t have yet time to test this.. most of the day went to recalibrate with the values witch works for my version of robox.. not yet satisfied with the settings..

abusus non tollit usum

[ClickyParticipant]

But you can still look it from positive side: there’s a chance that after you go through this fix it might, at last, be stable enough for you to print at the quality others are printing…

(I was deliberate not to describe the quality ;))

Mind you - last 4-5 prints (and they were bigger look here - oh - I forgot to upload pics of ‘black’ samples reel, I’ll do it tonight) came out quite alright for me. There is still hope for Robox… And if that fails - I still have a ‘backup’ solution, let me know if you’re interested…

[Anonymous]

@bespokeproductdesign - yes, it’s possible that they’re further along the path that CEL wanted to take, the videos certainly look impressive. But where are the users asking for help, getting help, posting results, and so on? It just seems rather quiet on that front…

People were rightly suspicious of the lack of high quality print examples from the Robox, and that pretty much continues today. I’m kind of ‘once bitten, twice shy’ now of this sort of project. I wouldn’t want a repeat of my experience with the Robox.

[BHudsonParticipant]

@bazinoz

Low flow from the .3mm nozzle can be from a couple of different points. The first thing to try is a full purge. The purge function is accessible from the maintenance tab on the Advanced pullout, accessed by clicking the three dots on the divider in the center of the AutoMaker program window. If you have a successful purge, the problem is not with the .3mm nozzle being blocked. If the purge does not succeed and you still experience low flow, you should hear the extruder clicking also. This indicates a clogged nozzle, a bad nozzle calibration or an incorrect material profile value.

Are you using the default profiles? What material are you using? If you have a custom profile, try the default profiles for both material and quality. If that does not fix the problem, try to recalibrate the nozzle openings. If that fails, follow the directions here: https://robox.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/1000074670-manual-purge to clear the nozzles of blockages.

If none of those work, please post again.

As for your one positive forum member, I think I am a pretty good example. I have been working with the Robox and CEL for 6 months and will shortly have three of the units. I have many successful prints with several different materials. I have found shortcomings of the design and CEL has addressed every one of them. They have and still respond in a timely fashion and have supported every issue I have had. I would like everyone to have the same experience, so I have been trying to help as much as I can on the forums. Please feel free to let me know if you have questions or need assistance and I will do my best to help.

Every 3D printer I have seen on the market requires some form of maintenance and knowledge of 3D printing to operate for more than one or two prints. If you are printing your own designs, perhaps there are some adjustments that need to be made to make them more printable. If you are printing downloaded models, they often get corrupt during download or upload and need to be fixed. There are several threads on the forums about how to fix them and how to verify your G-Code before printing.

@darthmac

If the filament is not sticking to the bed, the first thing to do is clean the bed between each print to remove buildup. I use isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber cloth. Then check that your bed is seated correctly and clipped in. I read that you had already done this, but you didn’t say how. I have noticed that any skin oil on the bed is detrimental to adhesion. I always clean the bed after re-installing it.

Do a nozzle height calibration and use a piece of printer paper. This should set the head a little closer to the bed and help push the filament into the bed and stop the adhesion issue.

Open the advanced tools and set your head offsets down .05. Repeat until you get good adhesion, but don’t run the nozzle into the bed. You should always be able to slide a piece of paper between the bed and nozzle. .01-.02 inches seems to be a good first layer height for difficult prints.

These steps should stop your adhesion problems. If not, please describe when and how the print comes off the bed. Please also post pictures of the prints and when they fail to adhere. Sometimes large, top-heavy prints with small bases are not printable with default settings because the surface area of the model being printed is too small to support the force of the nozzle as it lays down filament.

 

[ChrisParticipant]

cause i am in a feeling to build the whole machine and to understand it’s every part i ordered a diy-kit velleman K8400

http://www.vertex3dprinter.eu/

my second strong choice was Lulzbot TAZ 4, a printer that’s has been in dozens reviews inside top 5 and i really like everything what they do. i will probably order one of those too one day

Zmorph is a interesting concept but not convinced about the print quality and in some youtube videos i got the feeling that it is a very slow printer. and some forums someone said that it is just an overpriced mendel prusa. this is sad, cause the voxel based software looked very promising, also it would be nice to use the laser cutter..

what i’ve seen about Printrbot Plus Metal, gives feeling that it is a very good machine. but don’t know how to support and software things are.

abusus non tollit usum

[RobParticipant]

hmm guess that’s something all the betas need to do with the upgraded parts then, we shall see.

They had a coupe of units merrily printing away, looked good quality but I have no idea how reliable/repeatable it would be. It seemed like a well engineered piece of kit and I think it can use a number of different slicing engines. Guess it should be more reliable from an early stage without the nozzle control headaches.