Search Results for 'open head'

[Omega64Participant]

@edthehorse: don’t bother with flexible filaments, you can do it better: print moulds and then simply fill them with two-component rubber or such.. look at this old post, this is IMHO a step-ahead way to use a 3D printer:

http://www.cel-robox.com/forums/topic/future-dual-extruder-system-pla-instead-of-pva/#post-15351

(scroll up a bit as the link seems to open the post at its middle point, not top/beginning like it should. Post I am referring to and linking to is # 15351)

[SarahParticipant]

Hey, @pete, I reported my issue to your support portal and got told “we have never seen this problem before!” Not feeling a whole lot of confidence in Cel right now. Since my previous post nothing I do gets the filament to register.

I would like to add that I’m on my third printer. The first one the gantry was so skewed on one side of the bed the head dug in and the other it was a millimeter above the surface. The second one first the head blew a gasket (only ever used the plastic Cel sent with the printer) and they had to send me a new one, then the extruder failed completely and they send a whole new printer after wasting weeks trying to fix it. Then there is a cable that hangs down and breaks prints unless I install a hack created by one of your forum members (bhudson). Now this third one I find out that the printer relies on a small plastic piece constantly rubbing against plastic filament? And the fact that this small plastic piece has worn down makes the printer, once again, useless unless I open it up and jury rig something to fix it?

• This reply was modified 4 days, 16 hours ago by  Sarah.

[clickParticipant]

More stripes than flat surface indicates your head is still high.

First layer being transparent indicates head being too low.

Contradictory, isn’t it?

Other explanation would be that you don’t have enough material coming through the nozzle. Maybe you can do nozzle opening calibration again? BTW are you aware of http://roboxing.com/ - wiki site for all Roboxers by the curtsey of @gid. There are a few very nice write ups regarding calibrations. I think that it currently it stands that nozzle opening calibration should be done with PLA filament.

Last thing I can think of is that somehow your settings are wrong (which I doubt). That you are making nozzles extruding really thin line while software slices it as if it is wide.

 

[PeteKeymaster]

hi @parallyze, you seem to be even less patient than me.

the first thing to do if you have a problem is to check with the support portal http://www.cel-robox.com/support/

often there is a simple solution but you should check as what might seem a simple fix could also cause more complex problems. certainly users should ask for advice from a service tech. before disassembling anything.

to test your extruder gears you can use these commands in the g-code entry box (requires user to be in advanced mode), open the advanced tray (3 dots) while on the status page and you will see a white text entry box.

Enter the following text then press enter

g0 e10

or

g0 e-10

Each time you press enter the extruder will run forward 10 or backward -10 units. This will prove that the gears are able to turn.

You can use these commands to feed filament as well, larger numbers after “e” will cause longer feeds. Be very careful while using these commands with the head fitted as the filament ramming into the head without the usual control will damage something. Smaller numbers are best, just press enter a few times to repeat commands.

You might find that feeding the filament in (causing the noise) then running the g0 e10 command a few times will let the gears grip and feed the filament. if it keeps making the noise then stop and ask for advice in the support portal.

I can’t rule out any mistakes you may have made while assembling the extruder. please take extra care. the cables connected to the extruder carry a high current at 24V and WILL damage the electronics if incorrectly fitted or with intermittent connection while power is present.

 

 

Hi there,

two days ago I received my first robox. At first I was very, very excited but that started to change about 20 minutes after setting it up. Where to begin…. as I’m not a native speaker some things may be unclear - so feel free to ask.

I followed the quick start guide. I removed all the tape, the transport lock and so on. The software had been installed before I connected the robox the first time. This is where the fun began. Immediately after switching on the robox I was asked to install a firmware update. I decided to do so and after that I was prompted to do a calibration. As I didn’t even load some filament for the first time I decided to postpone the calibration and go on with the quick start guide.

Loading the filament was no problem - but when I wanted to start the calibration AM told me I had to reseat the print head. So I pushed the eject button, the filament was ejected and I removed the reel. Then I switched off the robox and soon after noticed that the door was still locked. Turning on the robox from now on produced nothing more than a short flash of the inner light (white, really quickly fading out to red), the fans starting to spin for a 10th of a second and turning off again. My robox decided this would be fun in an endless loop. Great. The first time I thought I had to send it back. While doing this “loop” Windows was always playing it’s funny “usb device found” and “usb device removed” melody, so AM didn’t even see the robox online.

I tried holding the eject button while turning the robox on, nothing changed. Soon after I thougt about holding the eject button for 3 seconds again, the robox did some noise and suddenly seemed to be okay again.

Reseated the head, did a calibration and tried to print for the first time. Nothing got stuck to the bed so I did a height calibration. And a purge while I was at it. The only filament I was using was the enclosed PLA polar white… but the first lines while purging came out blue. The same blue as the clip on the rails was, that I had to remove in the first steps. Do they have to print their own stuff or why was there some blue filament still in the nozzles?

Soon after I started to print the little robot that came with AM. This looked good until there was some strange noise (not that a robox is a strange noise at all when you’re new to 3d printing ) and I had to pause the print job. The filament was “crossing” on the reel so the robox couldn’t get more filament. Took out the reel, cut of quite some filament until there where no more crossings, reinserted and continued the print job. Quality was… hmm… okay, except from the big gap that came in when the problem with the filament occured.

But at least it was printing. And quality could be improved by redoing the calibration and using normal/fine print settings. So I thought. Printed a 35mm minion figurine to try out supporting structures, this was okay and so I went to bed.

Day 2.

I started printing some kind of grid (160mm x 130mm x 12mm) I need for a project. The first 4 or 5 didn’t stick to the print bed properly - but only in the top left corner (when looking from above). Did a height calibration, decided to choose a value where the piece of paper still had a slight feeling of grip from the nozzle. The grid printed fine. But there where still some really obvious imperfections, I will post some pictures later.

After that I decided to print a round cap for a lamp I had build a while ago. 101mm in diameter, height of 10mm. While printing the 5th or 6th layer a new noise occured and soon after I had the first “filament slip” error. The filament was coming off the reel just fine so it had to be a new (surprise!) problem.

Purging did produce just parts of the lines and stopped soon because of filament slip. Ejecting the filament worked but reinserting it is not possible anymore. The motor will start to spin but immediately after getting grip there’s a strange noise and AM tells me to unload the filament, cut it and try again.

Day 3.

I decided to have a look at the extruder as this seemed to cause the problem. I followed the instructions from the support portal and opened the extruder. There was no debris or anything obvious blocking the filament from loading. Put it together, double checked the switch is working, double checked the bowden tube and everything was as it should (pictures will follow). Still it’s not loading the filament. I tried to stick a piece of filament into the bowden tube and there was absolutely no resistance or anything so I’m pretty sure the tube is alright and nothing got stuck there.

So right now I’ve spent around 16 hours with troubleshooting my brand new robox. It printed 3 things so far and now it isn’t working at all.

Any ideas of what to try next?

At this point I’m willing to return it to my dealer, get my money back and forget about the robox…

Thanks,
Daniel

 

 

Hello Robox Community,

I am new here and purchased my very first robox printer and was happy with the printer until it stopped working for me. short story - i purchased through ebay New, saved a bunch of moneys and on the 4th day it died. i opened the support ticket to find out that they will not support me due to purchasing through eBay. With that said i can go ahead and return the product and let the seller deal with it, but i saved so much on it i almost feel like keeping it and look for another board (assuming this is the issue and if they are readily available .) i am not new to 3d printing and this is my 3rd 3d printer with the other 2 being built from the ground up(reprap, mendelmax).

The issue with the printer: Printer stopped suddenly on a print and fan was blowing full blast, lost connection to the printer and became unresponsive. turned the power switch off and let it cool down. after powering on it was still unresponsive and print bed became extremely hot extremely fast, case fan is still on full blast. i also tried to hold down the pause button to connect to computer without power but no success.

if i cannot get the board replaced/repaired for less than $150 then i might be willing to reverse engineer the parts and slap on a reprap board.

let me know what you think, i will keep searching this forum for answers and technical details.

 

[BHudsonParticipant]

@innerbreed There are a couple of possible things happening.

1. A loose connection that is affecting the X axis limit switch. Test by opening the Advanced pane in AutoMaker and look for the diagnostics tab. With the Robox powered on, you should be able to press the small tab on the left side near the bottom of the head carrier. The “X Limit” entry should swap between “true” and “false” when the tab is pressed in. If it doesn’t, check that the head is seated properly and the ribbon cable at the back of the head is seated properly at the head carrier and the mainboard.

2. The X axis limit switch has failed or has something jamming it. You have to disassemble the head carrier to diagnose this, but AutoMaker will show you if it is not registering presses as in option 1.

3. Something is jamming the head so that the limit switch tab doesn’t hit the left side of the case and therefor the limit switch isn’t being triggered. You should be able to slowly move the head by hand and see if you can feel something stopping the head before AutoMaker shows a limit switch trigger to “true”

If that doesn’t help, you will probably have to open a ticket with CEL for advanced troubleshooting. I don’t know what level of technical troubleshooting you are prepared for, but option 1 and 3 are the easiest.

I am not affiliated with CEL; I operate two Betas and one Production Robox.

[pojuParticipant]

I think my first unit was like that, i had to sent t back without open anything, but while printing left side wasnt rising like right It had head clipped to left side and it only had one clip that hold head there. Second unit had head secured to right side, it still had that one clip. Support portal says that only beta units have blue sticker securing bed and other stuff :/

 

[davitParticipant]

@poju

@bhudson

Thanks for your response,

I opened ticket 2 days ago, now I’m waiting for the answer, I don’t hope getting robox’s new head under warranty, as it doesn’t cover damages because of using third-party filament, so I’ll pay for repairing, but unfortunately, I also don’t hope that after I receive fixed part, It won’t damage again for the same reason.

[Matt WelkeParticipant]

New head came in the mail today. I got it installed and did a material purge. After the first few lines I had material coming out and seemed to be working ok. Next I did a nozzle height calibration. The nozzle was heating up and something fell from the head. I could see that it was a screw laying on the print bed. Just after it hit the bed material started coming out of the side of the head. I stopped the test right away and waited for the head to cool down and open the door. After removing the head again I found what looks to be the place the screw goes as it had material coming out of it. Not sure if I can just head the head back up and then put the screw back in or what to do. Looks like I would have to take the plastic cover off the head to get a straight shot at putting the screw back in. I really don’t want to mess anything up.

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[clickParticipant]

Staying away from ABS is definitively wrong advice. Saying away from PLA would be equally bad. Switching filament from one to another might cause issue, but again would be bad advice.

Make sure thoroughly purging when switching from ABS to PLA and other way round might be better advice and ensuring that the temperature is selected while purging.

Heads shouldn’t have blown seals for using PLA or ABS exclusively - there’s nothing in the filament nor temperature that should cause the issue. What CEL did tell us earlier (directly or through someone else) was that bad seals or threadlock is to be blamed for the issue - not one material or another.

BTW recommendation regarding PLA is for nozzle opening - not calibration of XY or Z axes (alignment or nozzle height).

[ZachParticipant]

Definitely a blown head. Order new one and I’d advise staying away from ABS for awhile until they get some kinks worked out. We just got a new head the old ones fine nozzle wouldn’t stop leaking. Also make sure to run calibrations with PLA it ‘recommends’ running them with PLA, but it’s pretty much required. Had a ticket open yesterday because Nozzle Alignment kept messing up and they said ‘yea just do it with PLA’ and it works fine.