This topic contains 10 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by 
click 1 week, 4 days ago.
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Sounds good
A few additions:
- Quiter operation (maybe better isolation, or figure out what makes the noise). It is not very noise, but could be much quieter!
- Faster print speed with same quality
- Maybe a little bit more height than 100mm extra … but this should be fineMaybe move the cleaning pad to the right corner, so that any filament that doesn’t get stuck doesn’t fall into the printer (there is a opening just below it, maybe not the best place to have that!)
Yes much, much quieter!
For cleaning, it would be nice to have a box at a fixed position perhaps at the left side.
Measuring unit for filament pressure inside the head to prevent jammimg the head. If there is to much pressure then dont feed additional filament, if possible remove the filament a little bit.
And it should have an unlock function for the extruder: No pressure from the gear(s) to the filament.
Then the filament must not be unloaded for middle periods of non printing.
The new wiper design that is for sale takes care of the filament falling into the gap issue.
I operate two Betas and one Production Robox.
This *may* have been said elsewhere but here’s my $0.02 worth
I’d like:
1) A wider and deeper bed please, A4 would be good
2) An improved heated bed as some prints still have a small amount of curl, I’m experimenting with adding sprues to anchor prints more securely
3) Not directly relevant, a way of recycling my failures into filament
I don’t think that the bed has any relevance to curled prints if you have sanded it and keep it clean. Some materials will always curl. It is unavoidable.
I operate two Betas and one Production Robox.
I have much to learn - and much will be in the manual
What grit paper should I use? sorry, mildly Aspergers and I *need* to know
@originalcaruso I use 600 for XT and 400 for PLA. I have heard of people using everything between 800 and 120, depending on what surface finish they are ok with on the bottom of their parts. I think that for PLA you need either 320 or 400, 220 will give you a rough surface finish and I doubt you will gain a lot from the additional roughness.
I operate two Betas and one Production Robox.
Thanks - and apologies for derailing the thread, to get back on track…
An integrated 3D scanner too please
I don’t expect Robox getting there anytime soon. One of the reason I got Robox was potential for milling - for PCBs:
<b>”Quick-Change Head</b> – The removable head system allows you to change the function of Robox quickly and easily. Upgrade your Robox to become a dual material printer, stylus cutter, milling head or 3D scanner, the possibilities are endless!”
Now reading other stuff on the Kickstarter’s page like:
<b>”Cloud Slicing / Remote Access - </b>We would like to add functionality to AutoMaker™ which will allow you to view and control your Robox from anywhere in the world. With the added ‘black box’ and webcam, it should be possible to monitor Robox as it prints, and also set it up to print new items. As part of this we would also like to add cloud slicing, freeing up resources on your PC and allowing you to get printing faster.”
Nov 2013And knowing how easy is that and that we still didn’t see any major software update nor hardware upgrade - I am just not holding my breath. In the mean time I did search for 3d printer which might be inferior in design/build quality and maybe print quality - but has those options. And there are a few of which one I am expecting these days: http://fabtotum.com/
I am looking forward comparing functions that are common, but at top of them Fabtotum has 3d scanning and PCB milling build in + remote access (no need for PC attached to printer for monitoring/sending tasks), camera that is build in, swappable head design which is open sourced so people *can* make their own, etc…
Shame for Robox because it had (has?) such a potential, but not sure CEL will even had reason/drive to fulfil it…
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