This topic contains 6 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by 
David 1 week, 5 days ago.
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I’m pleased with this, the fit of all the components is really good, the push pull slide, which is a friction fit, works well with a small wrap of teflon adhesive tape to smooth the action.
This is a rail mounted focusable infrared illuminator for mounting on my rifles and for use with a digital night vision unit I’ve been putting together over the last two years. I bought the Robox to print these parts for both the torch and the body and supports for the circuits and components that make up the night vision unit. The first part is almost complete (the easy bit), now comes the tricky part which is the unit itself.
The torch is comprised of four parts; the outer shell which holds the lens, an inner sliding sleeve that holds the LED and a long heat sink, the rear knob that hold the connectors and rat tail lead, and finally the shroud that protects the lens, hold the lens in place and prevents spill of light.
Tested it tonight and it works really, really well! The odd thing is that if I print some components on ‘normal’ they end up quite brittle and delaminate with handling/ drilling. If I print on draft the pieces seem so much more robust - whether this is because the 0.8 nozzle creates fatter, more welded layers I’m not sure, but it’s my best guess.
Overall - nice print! But you definitively need to increase number of segments per circle. I did pretty much the same mistake with my reel and it is almost as visible as in your design.
BTW What design tool are you using? And what orientation did you print it in? I suspect upright with, where the lens is, down…
FormZ Jr for the 3D, with a little touch up in Cheetah 3D when necessary and NettFabb to post process the files for errors (that has dropped my fail and air print rate to ZERO).
I know what you say about the facetted sides, but I don’t actually mind it, the upside is that the facets help things like the shroud to protect the lens to lock in place, the screws are really belt and braces as even with those removed you really have to shake it hard to get the lens to pop out.
The inner sliding sleeve is quite smooth though if you look at the model, as that needs to slide as a friction fit. But yes, you’re right, more sides makes for a smoother result!
You printed it that way round?! Wow. Did you use lot of brim or none at all? And support? (I suspect none)
Facetted sides or not that’s just a cosmetic anyway…
No brim.
No support.
I had to print that way round as there is an inner rim in the big part that holds the lens, it’s a gradual step out at 45º to a flat surface at the top, that way the lens drops in and sits neatly on the inner lip.
Very impressive David. Did you have much Z axis blob seam lines ?
Yup! it’s flipping inescapable at the moment. They randomly appear although as I think your test show, these are a lovely little present that Slic3r gifts us!
I use wire wool to gently remove the blobs on parts that need to slide.
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