Home › Forums › Technical Support › Filament slip, print pauses. (Probably)[SOLVED]
This topic contains 31 replies, has 9 voices, and was last updated by jhr 5 months, 3 weeks ago.
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02/07/2015 at 4:02 pm #19275
Hi Guys,
Pictures to go with this wall of text.
So about a week ago this problem appeared. I had just loaded a new reel of Designer Grey PLA, and started a 12+ hours print. I like to do such prints over night, as I have the Robox just beside my desk. And the noise can get a bit annoying in the long run.
Next morning I came in to the office expecting a finished print. But instead i find my Robox is flashing green light, and on the screen AutoMaker tells me it has detected filament slip. I remember thinking “no worries” and hit resume. By the way, the print had pause after only 20 layers or so. the print resumed and all seemed fine. But I soon started to hear a cogging/grinding noise and shortly after the print would pause again.
This time I could see some extrusion missing. Started the print again, tried helping the extruder by pushing the filament in. I also loosened up the reel a bit. this helped for 15-20 minutes. then pause again.
This problem has kept annoying me for a week now. I have tried a bunch of possible solutions.
- Changed reel. I had some left on the previous reel. After all, the problem appeared just after the switch. NO!
- Tried to increase extrusion temperature, 195C-200C-205C. NO!
- Purge material. NO!
- Clean nozzles (several times). NO!
- Recalibrated nozzle opening. NO!
- Switched to a brand new extruder (I keep spareparts). NO!
Finally I took the time to think about this a bit, and had a good idea. Any time I manually helped by pushing on the filament it would work for a while. So instead of pushing it, I started to move the filament sideways. You see. I have printed a lot and there has formed groves in the filament guide leading up to the extruder. By moving the filament out of such a grove it would print fine until the filament eventually worked its way back into the groove.
I decided to make a new filament guide out of the same plastic tube that is connected to the other side of the extruder, leading to the print head. Designed some basic end pieces in OpenSCAD, printed them and installed the new guide. It had much lower friction, but AutoMaker would still pause the prints.
Thought about it some more, and today i finally decided to modify my extruder. Just before the filament enters the extruder gears it make a really sharp bend. This bend is by far the sharpest bend in the whole path of the filament. Disassembled the extruder, removing the motor and gears. Placed tha plastic parts together and tried pushing the filament in. There was a lot of friction. And I was pushing it through the bend. If the filament does not want to go through the bend when pushing, is should want to flex out of the bend, i.e decreasing the friction. The extruder motor is trying to pull it through the bend. And when the filament want to stick/not move. The extruder will be pulling it tighter into the bend causing even more friction. Very bad indeed!
The modification consists of filing out the bend in the extruder housing and install a piece of the tube in its place. Needless to say, this is a bullet proof way to void any warranty you might have left. But in the end, it seem to have cured my problem. As I write this I am about 5 hours in to an 8 hour print. And I stresstesting it, printing at 1.5x speed. Not a single glitch. In fact, thus far it is producing the smoothest print to ever come out of my Robox! The print has a 90x120mm square base, and there is no visible corner lift.
02/07/2015 at 6:27 pm #19277Both @azk13 and I had the same problems earlier this year and both of us decided to just ditch the side panel to allow the filament to be fed in sans the filament guide. I have not seen the filament slip error since. I am quite surprised there weren’t more complaints about this to be honest, so it makes me wonder if we have dud extruders 😛
Good job on the modifications, makes things very neat!
02/07/2015 at 8:01 pm #19278Really nice mod. It is worth preserving it for the future. @miffmaster why don’t you add it to roboxing.com? More precise here: http://roboxing.com/robox_accessories_and_projects
02/07/2015 at 10:15 pm #19279@uhuglue, Interesting that you mentioned the hot extruder motor. I have noticed this to. Its not 100C, but hot enough that you do not want to touch it for too long. Thought about attaching a heat sink, but have not found a good solution for this. Best would be the back/bottom of the motor. But then it will be in the way for the second extruder 🙁
@click, I shall add it tomorrow. Including the stl-file.
On another note. If this tube solution were to ever get worn. It is easy and cheap to replace.
03/07/2015 at 6:53 am #19286@miffmaster If it’s “hot enough that you do not want to touch it for too long” it will probably be 50C-60C, not a big deal, it’s normal for a stepper motor to produce heat. Sure reducing it through a fan won’t harm anything, but I don’t think it will make any difference either.
03/07/2015 at 8:54 am #19291“If it’s “hot enough that you do not want to touch it for too long” it will probably be 50C-60C”
First apologies for digression.
@omega64 is probably right. That’s the way I was taught to make home made yoghurt: heat milk to boil and let it start cooling down. When it reaches temperature that when you stick a finger in (preferably clean one) and feel it is hot but you don’t need to pull it out (less than 50º) then add a few tablespoons of (normal, bought or saved from the last time) yoghurt and put the lid on the pot and something like duvet around it for overnight. It will keep heat for relatively long time due to being insulated to let bacteria multiply. In the morning you can pour it in wide neck bottles or any other container you want to keep them and move it to fridge. If you want ‘drinking’ yoghurt (the latest invention here in UK) you just quickly whisk it before storing it…
03/07/2015 at 4:39 pm #19308@click, I have now updated some stuff on the roboxing wiki. Hope it helps someone.
Also. yoghurt you say… One day I shall print my yoghurt! 😉
03/07/2015 at 11:01 pm #19313@miffmaster It seems to me that your extruder has worn out. The nylon gears are probably worn to the point that the pulling force has dropped significantly. I would open a ticket with CEL to see if they will replace the extruder worm and gear.
As I have been printing without this issue for a very, very long time with a lot of very stiff filaments including CF20, I think the problem is your gearing and if you continue to use that gearing it will eventually wear out to the point that it won’t pull at all as the worm eats the teeth off the gear.
I operate two Betas and one Production Robox.
See my 3D Hub site at https://www.3dhubs.com/phoenix/hubs/ben03/07/2015 at 11:18 pm #19316@bhudson, That might be possible. I never actually saw any striping of filament. There was only a cogging sound. That would imply the brand new spare extruder I bought is defective in the same way. Without ever being used! Then again, I did not notice any obvious damage to the nylon gear.
Now I feel that I need to evaluate the pulling capacity of the extruders. Feeding filament through it and having it lift weights…
Have not really kept up with the forum for the last six months, as my Robox has been working flawlessly up until a week ago.
03/07/2015 at 11:30 pm #19317#miffmaster If you look in the lubrication gunk you may see hairs of nylon even though the gear looks fine. That is a sign the worm is eating the gear. Since you have voided the warranty on the extruder, you can try adding a thin washer, about o.o10 to 0.020 inches thick, between the plastic frame and the stepper motor around the front mounting screw. That will tilt the stepper forward a touch and will help the gears mesh. If the washer is any thicker, though, it will jam completely and the extruder won’t work at all.
I think the extruders may be tested as you say at the factory; I have seen a few extruders with a number written on the bottom. I started paying attention to it and found that the lower the number was the less reliable the extruder was. This may have some relationship or it may not, I don’t really know what your issue might be, though it seems a weak extruder to me.
As there is no obvious damage to the filament, that means the skip detection is working correctly. Are you seeing underextrusion at all? Sometimes you can get a power issue in the head power cable that will cause the nozzles not to open consistently and that will cause skipping even though the extruder is working correctly. I had this happen and went through three extruders trying to find it until I found that I had a bad power cable between the motherboard and head carrier. Replaced that and everything is perfect again.
I very rarely use CEL reels since I use PET almost exclusively now. I don’t see any wear on my filament guides.
What metal are the worms of your extruders? I have noticed that they have recently changed the worm material; the new ones are brass and they seem to be a little more dependable than the older steel ones in my experience.
I operate two Betas and one Production Robox.
See my 3D Hub site at https://www.3dhubs.com/phoenix/hubs/ben06/07/2015 at 4:50 pm #19382@bhudson, I had a look at my extruders today. The one that came with my Kickstarter edition has the steel worm gear. I could not see any damage to the nylon gear. If anything it was ever so slightly larger in diameter than the gear in the new extruder. Oh and the new extruder has the brass worm gear.
Anyway, I went ahead and contacted support to order a new nylon gear and the missing push in connector for the bowden tube. As it turns out, I have an old version of the bowden setup. So that is getting an upgrade as well. Just in case. By the way, support was super fast and very helpful. Parts went into the mail today! 😀
If I go back to the mod that I started this thread with. There will be an addition of push in connectors for the teflon tube in my new filament guide. It was much too optimistic to think that the tube would stay in the end pieces by press fit/friction. After all, it is supposed to be low friction 😉
06/07/2015 at 4:52 pm #19383@miffmaster It still sounds like you have weak extruders, or the filament skip threshold is set too low. But good luck.
I operate two Betas and one Production Robox.
See my 3D Hub site at https://www.3dhubs.com/phoenix/hubs/ben -
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