Topic: Creating Undercut's

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This topic contains 12 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Rob Rob 4 months ago.

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  • #4269
    Profile photo of 3peakslite
    3peakslite @3peakslite
    My Robox is a Blue Commercial Version

    What examples are there for producing undercuts, techniques & methods?

    Thanks

    #4280

    pelgrim @pelgrim

    would be a nice idea to let software do that.
    input: 3D file and material type
    output: new 3D file with supports

    java (EE), JavaFX, HTML, GIS) programmer, database wizard, framework inventor, looking for a job ! http://roboxing.com/wizards
    #4295
    Profile photo of Jack
    Jack @jack-strong
    My Robox is a Green Kickstarter Beta

    support structures

    #4297
    Profile photo of 3peakslite
    3peakslite @3peakslite
    My Robox is a Blue Commercial Version

    Even better if you could force the dual material head to treat support structures as a particular material, then hopefully the two are dislike & do not bond to each other else very small gap?

    #4653
    Profile photo of Rob
    Rob @bespokeproductdesign

    Slic3r allows you to change the ‘interface layer’ and adjust the gap between support and perimeter fills. If you’re doing large overhangs or ‘bridges’ though, say a hollow part with a suspended base, we will really need the dual head unit for a nice finish on the underside. Using only 1 material means that slic3r has to lay to the perimeter/bridge material loosely over the support structure, so you see a wavy face made up of lots of strings of filament on the inside (depending on the number of fill layers this usually transitions to a nice densely filled upper surface). Using a separate support material, such as a soluble PVA, means that slic3r can really compress the filament on the first bridge layers and provide a nice dense fill on the underside too, its adhesion to the support material obviously doesn’t matter if your dissolving it away.

    Not having experienced ‘home’ based slicing s/w before, I’ve been quite surprised how ‘dumb’ the Slic3r software actually is. You have to manually set the number of base and top fill layers which, if your printing a part with a large sweeping rad on the top, can sometimes result in a wasted print with non filled upper surfaces. There’s definitely a level of experience required to ensure a good quality print with parts other than simple busts or toys.

    What is encouraging though is AutoMaker’s interface with the Slic3r software, which I can imagine will allow Cel to seamlessly ‘bolt-on’ intelligent (or otherwise) snippets of code to assess the model and automatically adjust Slic3r settings.

    #5410
    Profile photo of 3peakslite
    3peakslite @3peakslite
    My Robox is a Blue Commercial Version

    Most demo parts are of busts or chess type pieces but I’m more interested in simulating moulded parts which produce overhangs & the solutions to over come these!

    One example in the news section above ‘
    <h2 class=”title” style=”font-weight: 300 !important; color: #444444;”>Spit, Polish and Elbow Grease</h2>
    shows a bust of a character sitting with distinctive overhangs at the knee! how was this produced?

    There was mention earlier of using soluble PLA with the twin head unit however is this material available?

    Cheers

    Steve

    #5426
    Profile photo of Rob
    Rob @bespokeproductdesign

    Hi @3peakslite, yes same situation for me, I’ll be using it to verify designs for mouldings and CNC parts rather than producing busts and toys. Having said that, I’ve printed some basic stuff during the beta testing.

    Bearing in mind these are from my BETA machine, a few months ago now. . . . things have improved significantly since:

    1) The k-9 shows typical overhang support structure which can be pulled off quite easily with pliers.

    2) More challenging (without the dual extruder head) are larger overhangs or suspended ‘floors’. the slicer software builds in support material, but as explained above without some soluble support, the underside looks stringy as its doesn’t compress and fuse (see other images)

    I have read about soluble PVA filament (but not found it in any stores). The other option is to use standard PLA for the support, ABS for the main perimeters and fill, then use an ultrasonic bath (with caustic soda solution) to dissolve the PLA. This is the typical offering from . . . dare I say it . . . 3DSystems. I’ll hopefully be attempting this over the next couple of weeks when some new kit arrives . . . I’ll keep you posted if you like.

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    #5432

    Magelan @magelan

    @bespokeproductdesign, @3peakslite

    Soluble PVA filament for sale in this webstore, in europe.

     

    http://www.3dprima.com/en/filaments-for-3d-printers/special-filament-175mm/3d-prima-pva-filament-water-soluble-175mm-05-kg-spool-natural.html

     

     

    • This reply was modified 4 months ago by Profile photo of Magelan Magelan.
    • This reply was modified 4 months ago by Profile photo of Magelan Magelan.
    • This reply was modified 4 months ago by Profile photo of Magelan Magelan.
    #5448
    Profile photo of Rob
    Rob @bespokeproductdesign

    aha, thanks @Magelan . The ultrasonic bath is an expensive option given this stuff!

    #5466
    Profile photo of Dr. Woo
    Dr. Woo @dr-woo

    Ultrasonic cleaners are available for little money on ebay. The really basic ones for less than £10, better ones for less than £30, good ones for less than £60. Check out this one and this one for example.

    #5499
    Profile photo of Rob
    Rob @bespokeproductdesign

    They seem fine if you’ve got some very small parts! u\s baths which can fit the largest Robox prints in are more expensive. Also something to keep in mind is their compatibility with caustic soda solution, I suspect many of the cheaper options are supposed to be use without additives or with some mild detergent. The timer function (if you want it) also needs to facilitate 1-2 hrs soak time.

    • This reply was modified 4 months ago by Profile photo of Rob Rob.
    #5508
    Profile photo of Dr. Woo
    Dr. Woo @dr-woo

    You should be able to source a large one with metallic tub and timer for less than £200. Not exactly what I would call expensive.

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