Search Results for 'overextru'

There’s probably an existing .stl or .obj or cad file of the Robox 3D printer. It’d be nice to make it available to Robox owners, even just the door and just the case internals with solid infill to keep intellectual property yours, but keep the print area empty for us to freely model inside it and outside the case.

I was thinking of designing a smoke detector attachment on the printer. But since there are no rods or obvious places to design a holder with, the next best thing is to know the exact dimensions of the case and the door. With that, we can design more user friendly and responsible mods (things that wont be detrimental to safety and functionality) for the printer. Sure we can always measure, but getting it from the source would be a boon.

Ideas for mods and enhancements:

1) Smoke Detector holder (inside or outside of printer). One of the reviewers from Amazon had a problem with smoking fumes understandably a risk for all 3d printers but still would be nice if made easier for owners to design their preferred smoke detector holders for these events.

2) Better filament trap catcher by changing the bottom front panel with sliding removable catcher. This will ensure discarded filaments won’t interfere with mechanical parts. My door latch stopped working recently because of a lodged filament. Currently removing the panel, lifting/tilting the printer, and “shaking” filaments loose doesn’t seem to be safe and I feel like I might break something inside.

3) Case door open latch override mechanically connected to the pause button on the SmartReel spooler (we obviously will pause it first before opening case) in case of overextrusion, filaments getting into Y rod, tall print getting dislodged from bed blocking Y motion…that happened to me by the way…hearing the belts screech was traumatic, etc…I know I can send open door gcode G37 but it takes awhile (a few minutes) to execute. The fan turns on first to lower the temps, but sometimes I just need to get inside there like right now before things get worse.

4) Web cam holder so that we can monitor the sound (google 3d printer zelda music) and status of the printer. This will work nicely with the smoke detector and send the alert to a monitor app on our phones. As gung ho I am about baby sitting my prints, monitoring an 18hr print is no joke.

Cel can and should give us meaningful guidelines on creating these mods. As a community, we can always determine whether a mod or enhancement is safe and if it makes common sense. Thank you for your consideration.

Manifesting ideas is still difficult, but at least we're one step closer...

[BHudsonParticipant]

@3dnerd the step is normal. That is where the Robox switches from a matrix fill method to a solid fill method and there is an overextrusion issue, I think it is with Slic3r. It occurs to some degree on every pyramid I print. The warping issue on the fine print is odd. I haven’t seen that much warping on that small a print before. I don’t use PLA anymore, though, as T-Glase and ColorFabb _XT are so much better.

I just got a roll of black ColorFabb _XT filament from PrintedSolid.com. To test it, I printed this vase:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/y3r66e1fafqd6tt/AAA4vyc1-gK2u-Ba0WEbToXTa?dl=0

from this download:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28052

I used the 2mm wall version and printed it on fine. It took almost 18 hours. My observations from the print are:

1. There seems to be an overextrusion issue on any solid layers. I have seen this issue with other filaments as well but it is really obvious on the base layers on this print. I think this may be a Sli3r issue but may also be something in the profile settings.

2. Bridging is good compared to ABS or PLA but not as good as T-Glase. I will post bridge test photos soon.

3. There is no curl on overhangs like every other filament I have used. It is hard to see in the photos and even in person; I will do the Make overhang test and post that as well. Most of this observation comes from watching the print and seeing that the material stayed where it was supposed to be.

4. The material is almost odorless but coats the inside of the printer in a fine haze. I don’t notice any ill effects like I do with ABS, which makes my eyes sting a little and makes my nose itch.

5. The material seems very strong. When one of the thin walls did break, it didn’t break on the layer edges but as if it were one injection molded or cast piece. It broke in brittle fashion, more than ABS, more than PLA even.

6. Lots of spiderwebbing. Observation during print points to buildup on the nozzle being pulled behind it and making very fine threads. Since this is a polyester material, that is expected.

7. Bed adhesion is excellent. The part did not separate from the bed even though I hadn’t cleaned it for several prints.

Overall, this seems like an excellent material for general use. Color seems to be even and complete; it is almost perfectly opaque in the thicknesses I have printed. I will run some dimensional stability prints and see what the shrink rate is.

 

[BHudsonParticipant]

@mistsoul There could be something in the head, but probably not. That is usually the cause of jamming of the nozzles. I have had some chunks of ABS come down the Bowden tube and out the large nozzle. That is usually a sign the extruder needs to be cleaned.

For overextruding, I don’t remember if it is the filament multiplier or the feed multiplier. With PLA I ignore it and it goes away.

I don’t know how to fix the connection issue. I haven’t decided if it is actually that or bad filament, I will have to investigate.

@3dnerd I have a beta printer and full reign from CEL to take things apart and attempt to fix them. I don’t usually post pictures for two reasons; 1. Your printer may be different than mine and I don’t want to tell you to do something in a specific way unless I know for sure my instructions won’t tell you to do it wrong. There are changes between beta and production and I don’t know who has what. 2. I may not have pictures of what I am talking about.

If there is something specific you would like to know about, let me know what you are looking for and I will try to help. But I don’t want to break someone’s machine by giving bad instructions.

[AimdyParticipant]

@bhudson i can check the extruder tonight and try to clean it, could something be stuck in the head also? i am thinking no, because I am able to purge once the material feeds

for an overextruding problem, do you just reduce the multipliers? I have both at .9 in my setting.

if there is a connection issue, any tip on how to correct it?

[BHudsonParticipant]

@mistsoul I have been running mine as tight as I can get it without any issues, but I haven’t tried nylon for a while.

If it works for a while and then stops I would look for:

1. Print settings - if you are overextruding, it will start to skip. I get this in PLA quite a lot with the default settings, but it goes away after a while. You can hear it bump when it skips.

If it works for a while and stops extruding at all, period:

2. Buildup in the extruder. Especially if you are using PLA and ABS, there may be small particles of plastic the teeth of the extruder. I find I have to clean mine about every three months. Remove the extruder, remove the screws from the side of it and the tension screws, and unplug the switch cable. Remove the tension arm and the side, then clean the plastic from between the drive teeth.

3. Tangling in the reel.

4. I don’t know for certain, but I suspect there may be some units with a jamming issue between the head and the extruder, probably at one of the connections to the bowden tube. Mine did it with the BronzeFill but hasn’t done it with regular PLA. Still testing this.