Search Results for 'fan'

[Dragos Alexandru PaunParticipant]

I was reading this http://www.mitcalc.com/doc/gear4/help/en/gear4.htm , check out the section Wear Load Capacity

 

Thanks for the info, will be putting a fan on the new extruder. The job I was running when mine broke was a 4 hour job but the printer broke after 30 min and a total accumulated print time of around 5-6h :(.

[azriParticipant]

@theprintviking Yeah it is hard to tune it but if you manage to, you will know how to relieve the extruder so that when your replacement part comes, the gear will not break. If the printed gears doesnt break, your replacement part will even be harder to break.

http://www.cel-robox.com/forums/topic/cooling-fan-for-the-extruder-motors/

[MiffMasterParticipant]

Hi fellow ROBOXers,

It’s been a while (holidays and piled up work after). But when the new version of AM arrived I could not resist any longer. Removed all my custom profiles and loaded up the new AM. Went through all the fancy calibration procedures and made a couple of tiny test prints. It sure was an improvement!

But that only lasted for a few hours of printing. And I see several others here have the same experience. The print head blew both needle gaskets and filled up with PLA. It was a mess!

I off cause opted to first try fixing it myself. Started to dis-assemble the head, nothing to complicated. But when it came to cleaning up the PLA i got stuck for a while. First attempt was to just break it away. However I soon realized this approach would likely end i disaster. Thought about dissolving the plastic, but had no solvent up to the task. Finally I fired up the soldering iron. Dialed it down to 210°C and began working the PLA off. It was very time consuming, but also very gentle. When I got to the inside of the melting chamber I found a lot of brownish hardened residue. I do not know if this is burnt plastic, or if some thread lock was used during assembly and got inside. But it was hell to remove. After several hours of cleanup, parts are almost as clean as new.

Unfortunately, I was way to focused to stop and think “I should take pictures of this”. I apologize for this. the good part is that I brought the parts home for assembly during the weekend. So I did get time to think during the bus ride home. Which means I have pictures of the assembly process!

Check this out Assembly of ROBOX Dual Nozzle Head.

On Monday I shall let you know how it went.

Good luck guys!

[AimdyParticipant]

Are you guys ejecting the filament daily to store it, which gives the head a break and allows the head/leftover filament in the head to cool to acceptable temperature/consistency. Can’t remember if the fan always engages after a print but remember that it always does when the filament is being ejected. Perhaps Cel should add a shutdown button, so that the printer automatically goes through the proper routine to close the shop, hence perhaps helping us avoid issues at restart. This just came to mind based on @Pete‘s reminder, but not sure if the seal issues a lot of members are having is related to how the machine is shut down:

http://www.cel-robox.com/forums/topic/automaker-1-01-00-released-this-is-a-huge-update/#post-13587

“NEVER switch the power off while fans are still running on Robox. This is vital… If the residual heat of the head is allowed to heat the rear of the head it will cause the filament there to distort and potentially jam. The fans keep this area cool and will automatically run while the head is over 60°C. This transition point has been carefully designed and the heatsink/fan is tuned to maintain the solidity of the filament before it is melted.”

Moh

[JackParticipant]

I’m still on the trial email version, are there any differences to the latest on website ?

Yep, it’s working fantastically!

[clickParticipant]

@davidmason83 Nice. Is it hollow from inside?

Oh, and, btw, thing about the environment (green ABS thrown away each time you want to print)

Just try this gcode:

M140 S50

And leave robox for 10 minutes. I am sure ambient temp is going to raise to 45º as well.

If fans kick in to start cooling it down then combination should be:

M140 S50

M170 S45

If you are still unsure, give me this evening to try them out on my Robox and report back. It really should be as easy as that.

[Ed_backer909Participant]

^ do it

 

walk thru gcode here -

http://gcode.joewalnes.com/

http://gcode.ws/

Similiar

http://www.3dgeni.us/gCodeViewer/index.html (LOVE this one)

 

FANTASTIC way to “see” before you print!

Ed

 

[clickParticipant]

@discosteve try following:

slice with Cura, start print, stop it, find latest gcode and save it.

slice with Slic3r, start print, stop it, find latest gcode and save it.

Then open both in gcode preview (with 3d?) and compare! If you have fantastic opportunity to make short comparison between those two for us - at least on example of Eiffel’s tower…

[azriParticipant]

@omega64 Even though your gears maybe metal, overheated extruder means your metal gears will get hot and when the heat gets to the gear that turns your filament, that is when the material reach a melting point and the gear that feeds the filament slips due to deformation of the filament.

Having a hot extruder (100 degrees celcius or more) also makes the extruder very inconsistent in its extruding strength affecting prints.

A definite change in the filament guider or the way the filament is fed to the extruder is very important to reduce the drag. The fan may not be that important if this can be solved but I just added the fan to have the best settings.

The plastic gear seems to be a standard now and I think it is also a standard in the new dual extruder that is coming.

• This reply was modified 1 week, 6 days ago by  azri.

[azriParticipant]

@omega64

http://www.cel-robox.com/forums/topic/cooling-fan-for-the-extruder-motors/

And when you are done with making the modifications which is actually just doing away the filament guider, repositioning the entry point of the filament, adding a small fan to the extruder and loosening the extruder springs to a suitable level(optional to not damage the gear when there is a jam).

Then you can start all the calibration and print a test print and adjust the feed multiplier(if necessary).

And you can start printing with no worries after that.

[azriParticipant]

Normal mode in the new update actually speeds up the head movement compared to fine mode. You are right, I dont see it using the 0.8 nozzle at all for one of my prints(the one i monitored).

Robox is actually a good printer if you make a few modifications with it. I have actually printed a lot of things after modding a few things. They really should redesign those problems or their printer will not be reliable nor produce quality prints consistently.

If these changes alone are made,
-Cooling of extruder motors
-Do away with the filament guider and have a direct feed to the extruder in the angle posted in the link below
-tension of the springs more on the looser side(you can now do that because of lesser drag due to doing away with the high drag filament guider)

http://www.cel-robox.com/forums/topic/cooling-fan-for-the-extruder-motors/

Of course the redesign will make the printer look a bit bulkier(maybe uglier too) but you will make the printer reliable and the extruder not even close to overworking thus you can print for hours(I have printed 13 hrs a day since the new setup 7 of jan 2015 excluding sundays) with a peace of mind knowing that your filament will not stop extruding midprints

After they have repaired the previous problem, they should consider reverting back the gears to metal so that the printer can last even longer

http://www.cel-robox.com/forums/topic/extruder-gear-material-from-metal-to-plastic/

These to me are the essential problems with the printer after close to a month of use. I would dare to buy someone’s Robox if they think they cant get quality prints because after I mod it and have the fixes I just said, I am pretty sure that Robox will be able to produce all the quality prints I have been getting. And with the new software(mind blowing quality compared to the previous slicer), this robox has lots of potential. If only the build size was a bit bigger. I would have bought another unit to speed up my production(Am currently producing a prototype(requires very precision prints to even assemble) which is patented so I haven’t been posting any stuff about it).

Anyway I hope the staff really considers these two changes because I really see a future with this printer. Its ease of use when it is working well is making me stay away from buying another printer.

• This reply was modified 2 weeks, 1 day ago by  azri.
• This reply was modified 2 weeks, 1 day ago by  azri.

http://www.cel-robox.com/downloads/

 

The interface has changed, a lot.

• Cura is the default slicer, you can change this default by clicking the COG in the top right corner. Or per profile when you create a custom print profile.
• When using Cura some options are greyed out, Slic3r still has more options than Cura. Cura is not able to slice some models that Slic3r can, or it slices them and makes some strange decisions. You might want to swap back to Slic3r in some instances.
• Calibrations screens and controls have been altered, the new XY calibration will allow users to more easily align the 2 nozzles so gaps between fill and perimeter can be tuned out.
• While we would be very interested in your custom profiles and materials we ask that you use the defaults to start. The results will be dramatically different.
• Older print profiles might have content that is not compatible, we have tried to transfer them over automatically but I would personally start from a new default profile and add my custom settings to that.
• If you have written custom materials onto your reels they will not be automatically overwritten. You might want to write the defaults onto them again.

 

A reminder:

NEVER switch the power off while fans are still running on Robox. This is vital… If the residual heat of the head is allowed to heat the rear of the head it will cause the filament there to distort and potentially jam. The fans keep this area cool and will automatically run while the head is over 60°C. This transition point has been carefully designed and the heatsink/fan is tuned to maintain the solidity of the filament before it is melted.

 

 

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