Search Results for 'colorfabb'

[daveParticipant]

Nice, good to hear you guys are printing with 3rd party filament too I’m still messing around with the temperature but the best results are around 240 degree I guess (first layer 242, next layers 238 is what I’m trying now). Just had a jam of the head against my model, made a crappy noise and it skipped on the Y-axis causing the print to fail, on a retry with the same settings the same thing occurred (both Draft settings), I think the 0.8mm nozzle isn’t a good match with this filament so now I’m trying normal with 0.3 nozzle for the first layer as well, let’s see how that works out. It seems the head bumps into the model when moving the nozzle to another part to print, maybe it should raise a little more before moving to prevent this? Looking forward to some pics of the bronze-fill/copper-fill samples, really like the look of the bronze-fill samples Colorfabb provides on their site.

• This reply was modified 2 months, 4 weeks ago by  dave.

[Chris WhiteKeymaster]

@dave We’re actually running XT right this second - we picked up some samples from ColorFabb at the TCT show. We’ve also got BronzeFill and CopperFill - Bronze seems fine, not tested the Copper yet. Hopefully we’ll have an XT/Amphora profile too soon, it’d be interesting to see if we come up with the same values…

[daveParticipant]

I’ve already posted this in the Colorfabb topic but since we are discussing reel holders, I’ve modified one to fit Robox and Colorfabb spools + it’s easily printable on the Robox: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:486027

[daveParticipant]

Received the _XT today with some PLA samples as well, testing the transparent _XT first
I printed a filament holder for the Colorfabb reels yesterday and got some 608 bearings today to fit it, it works beautifully

A short first review about the _XT material:

It’s very very nice I printed a replacement bulb/cover for a Philips Hue led lamp that i dropped a while ago (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:224455/#files).
The material sticks to the building plate very nicely; I had some stringing on the first layer but thats probably fixable with tweaking my first-try filament profile a bit. The layers after that were very nice and looked just great, that is until Slic3r decided to put some extra blobs for now apparent reason on some of the layers (seen this on other models and other filament as well using just thin borders with the Robox, anyone familiar with a fix?). It’s definitely no glass to look at once printed but it is transparent and just diffuse enough to break the light enough for it to function on the bulb. Sizing is fine as well, could snap it right on for a really good and tight fit. Overall very impressed with this material and I will probably try the _XT color selection as well.

Attached some photo’s; Note: the blobbing is due to slic3r, not the filament.

I’ll post the filament holder to Thingiverse soon; It’s a modified existing design with dimensions that are printeable on the robox, the spool holder is made to match the dimensions of the Colorfabb spools but it works fine with the Robox spools as well

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ABS or PLA Pellets sources:

http://www.cisinks.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=pellets&x=0&y=0

http://colorfabb.com/pellets

http://www.filabot.com/collections/frontpage/plastic-pellets

Bulk suppliers-

http://www.professionalplastics.com/PlasticResinsPelletsforExtrusionMolding

<span style=”color: #000000;”>[</span>http://www.natureworksllc.com<span style=”color: #000000;”>]</span><br style=”color: #000000;” /><span style=”color: #000000;”>[</span>http://www.plasticscrap.us<span style=”color: #000000;”>]</span>

EU-

<span style=”color: #000000;”>[</span>http://www.bioresins.eu<span style=”color: #000000;”>]</span><br style=”color: #000000;” /><span style=”color: #000000;”>[</span>http://www.color-service.de<span style=”color: #000000;”>]</span>

 

 

Does anyone have any experience printing Colorfabb XT or Colorfabb’s own PLA mixture?
I’ve just ordered a spool of XT to try and some PLA/PHA samples to try but if someone already has a good working profile that would save me a lot of testing

• This topic was modified 3 months ago by  dave.

[Chris WhiteKeymaster]

I think PETg is Polyester Terephthalate Glycol, Teflon is PTFE Polytetraflouroethylene - dramatically different plastics. PTFE has a melting point ~320°C and is therefore not feasible to print with the current head design, due to the max temperature of the thermistor used to control nozzle temperature (300°C). There are a number of other flouroplastics including FEP, ETFE and PFA that often have lower melting points, but we have done no testing on these types of material (I’ve also never seen any in the 3D printing community generally…) - I would imagine there are huge problems with inter-layer bonding and indeed adhesion to the bed, but just guessing here… I think you would suffer similar issues if trying to get it to bond to anything else too i.e. ABS/PLA/Nylon due to the very low coefficient of friction, but it remains to be seen. The suggestion from @patrikl seems reasonable, I think there is as similar process for bonding PTFE to frying pans etc. using a metal oxide as a boundary layer.

PETG (well PET generally) however is a different story, as there are already a number of filaments in the market which make use of this material. One of particular interest is a new one from ColorFabb called Amphora/XT which is based on a Kodak Eastman PET specifically designed for 3D printing - check it out:

http://colorfabb.com/xt-copolyester

We anticipate this to be fully compatible with the Robox print head, and we’re trying to obtain some samples at the moment. I think some users have already done some testing with T-Glase from taulman (which I think is a polyester of some sort) with some great results - see:

http://taulman3d.com/t-glase-spec.html

http://www.cel-robox.com/groups/robox-beta-phase-1/forum/topic/latest-prints/page/3/

http://www.cel-robox.com/groups/robox-beta-phase-1/forum/topic/taulman-t-glase-settings/

http://www.cel-robox.com/groups/robox-beta-phase-1/forum/topic/taulman-t-glase/

We actually spoke to the rep from Kodak at CES last year, and I have his card on my desk - looks like we need to look at sourcing some of their new resin for filament…

[Anonymous]

Before you all rush to try and print large objects, do you know how long such prints would take? Here is a picture of a partially completed print of the famous Yoda head full size on a delta tower. At this stage, it was 80 hours and still printing…

Printing big objects has a whole bunch of issues with it, not least leaving a heated print head running for days on end continuously, and what happens if the print fails within a few hours of the end of the print? All that time, electricity and material is wasted! There are better ways to make big objects out of plastic. IMHO, 3D printing isn’t currently one of them.

Yes, there probably is a sweet spot a bit larger than what the Robox can handle, but it’s not that much larger. I think the Ultimaker 2 has the print size about right, much bigger than this and prints take days to finish and have greater risk of not completing. Unfortunately most of the FDM printers capable of good quality “large” outputs are double the price of the Robox!

You just can’t have everything.