Search Results for 'colorfabb'

[daveParticipant]

It’s not limited to polar white, I have it with other PLA and even Colorfabb _XT as well.
Here a marvin I printed using transparent _XT with my fan in front of it (the green one is printed using another printer, ignore that one!):

Here a failed lower body of the marvin, printed without the fan in front of it:

As you can see the edges with big overhang curl up without the fan, this print is supposed to be flat.
The print will correct itself if you continue since the head keeps melting that part until it’s flat but doing that will result in blobs and ugly outer layers for that part, and if unlucky you might skip on the X or Y axis causing your print to fail.

I’m saving my Polar White for now since it has other issues with my printer that might get solved in a next software update.

• This reply was modified 2 months ago by  dave.

[daveParticipant]

Got the halloween value filament pack from Colorfabb (no, I don’t have Colorfabb stock options ;)) in the mail today which included a spool of Glow in the dark filament. How cool would it be if my sugar pourer would have not just a skull as a lid but a white skull as a lid that glows up when the sun goes down so I can still find it in the dark? Well, 3/4 hours printing @ 100 micron later with the 0.3 nozzle @ 0.2mm width here it is!

It looks pretty good, very smooth This is what it looks like in the dark:

Glow in the dark filament, how could I’ve lived without it

• This reply was modified 2 months ago by  dave.

[daveParticipant]

No problem
I currently use this stuff http://colorfabb.com/pla-pha

[daveParticipant]

Eh, complete build area? The photo’s Benjamin posted seem like just the 100% and 200% of the original looking at the quality compared to mine, just a little bit more of a close-up looking at the grooves in the table, or am I wrong? If the big print really is the full build area that seems to be pretty poor quality

I’ve tested multiple settings now, the prints are getting better decreasing the filament multiplier from 0.95 to 0.60 (tried 0.8 and 0.7 as well but all over extruding, even 0.60 is a bit too much). It seems that the next best layer after the infill is always over-extruding making a mess for the layers to follow, so I’ll try one later with 0.60 multiplier and 100% infill next to see if that helps. Here’s one with 4 solid layers at top and bottom, 25% infill (honeycomb), 0.60 filament multiplier, 0.70 layer height and all nozzles set to extrude 0.2mm, extra fan blowing in front of the open-lid robox for better PLA results (black Colorfabb PLA).

As you can see even with my big ass fan in front of the Robox it still can’t finish the top layers decently because they won’t solidify in time for the next layer. Don’t mind the bended bottom plate, took it off the heated plate to fast

[daveParticipant]

Another day some other prints

Since it’s almost Halloween I made some simple prints for testing filament and settings. The one that came out best is a creepy vampire Skull:

This is how it came of the printer:

This is printed using a sample of orange Colorfabb PLA; As you might notice it doesn’t have the blobbing/curling/nasty edges issue other small PLA prints have; I did have that with some other test prints with the same filament (see the picture below to see what I mean); I fixed it by keeping the lid open and putting a giant fan in front of the Robox while printing. I had to manually turn the head and plate 1 or 2 degrees higher but in the end it really helped to solidify the layers much much faster. Pretty? No, not really, but unless someone comes up with a better idea and working fix I’ll be able to print small in PLA this way The only problem with this print is that there are some layers with a smallish gap in between them, not that bad if you look at it but noticeable, this might have to do with me setting the multiplier for this filament to 0.85…

I printed a creepy shadow maker for my flashlight as well which you can see in action in my first photo:

I guess it’s a little late for sending in entries for the contest (+ expensive, international shipping isn’t cheap) but in my opinion the skull looks pretty good for such a small 1 hour and a bit 100 micron print. Hopefully CEL will throw in some other contests as well where you don’t have to ship your model in the future

• This reply was modified 2 months ago by  dave.
• This reply was modified 2 months ago by  dave.

[daveParticipant]

@wellmeadow I’ve been using OpenSCAD for a while now, both for my own 3D printing needs as well as for generating dynamic 3D models on the fly. My experience with OpenSCAD is that it’s a great tool for me to create parts with precise dimensions just the way I intended; The models always come out clean for 3D printing without the need of fixing them using Netfabb/Meshmixer/etc.. I also use it to create 3D models from 2D vectors (for example cookie cutters) using the import function with .dxf files generated from a .eps converted to .dxf with the pstoedit tool. It does has limitations; For example the import function and build in boolean functions (difference, union, intersect) only work when you are lucky; On most imported (more complex) models it won’t work, I work around this by doing this in Blender (the boolean tools there are much better) but it’s not ideal. I also miss the possibility of creating text in various fonts without using one of the working but tedious plugins; I work around this by using Illustrator to create text and import the curves of that text into OpenSCAD, it’s some work as well but my experience is that it’s faster and more precise as the plugins. Feel free to create a new OpenSCAD topic with questions or tips

Personally I don’t think you can print a nice spiral ‘in the air’ with the Robox and the default filament; You might have some more luck with T-Glase or Colorfabb _XT; I noticed the bridging capacity for _XT is a lot better then the bridging capacity of the Robox ABS or PLA filament. You can try it in green ABS as well since PLA seems to need the most time to solidify, often making trouble on short layers.

Since my head is in service at the moment I found some time to photograph some of the items I haven’t showed already printed with the Robox;
I’m mostly into functional prints as you can see and I use some of them on a daily base already. They are here to show what I’ve printed, how I got the best results and what failed and why.

Manfrotto tripod base plate for mobile phones

This is one of my own designs created in OpenSCAD, it’s a replacement Manfrotto mounting plate for my tripod but instead of a screw you can put your phone in it. This one is made for my Xperia Z3. I printed it as 2 ‘slide together’ parts with some supports generated by Automaker for the part where the phone is connected. Unfortunately it’s a bit too tight for my phone due to shrinkage (even with this PLA it occurs) so take some room into account to make sure it fits. For the base plate I didn’t use supports, it worked bridging the gap but it dropped a bit since it wasn’t supported leaving path-blocking filament lines on the print. I removed them with the tools and that worked out. Supports are hard to remove so the phone part isn’t that nice on the underside but who looks there anyway?

Replacement clips for a box

My girlfriend lost a clip of a cupcake box (yes, they exist) a while back and it was a good practice for me to make a replacement. I used OpenSCAD for this as well and had the STL ready since last year so now I was finally able to print them; They are a perfect fit for the box and blend in nicely due to the transparent filament. It did have a lot of blobbing on the inside but that’s due to the problem with my printhead so it’s not on the photo.

Cat food toy

I’ve got 2 cats (They are called Mario & Luigi of course, Mario loves printers, I scare him away every time he tries to come anywhere near the Robox) and they both love threats, but they eat them so fast it can’t be good for em; So I printed this; It printed nicely and it really works, fun to watch

Garden gate key

I’ve got a garden gate with a lock on it; you know the one, with the old-fashioned keys. One thing that bothered me was that the key takes up so much space on my keyring and is way too big for what is needed; So a nice project for the Robox. Printed this one so many times and a lot of them failed, they either tipped over (standing upright), had too much support making it impossible to remove it or it wasn’t strong enough; If you want to print these kind of keys I would recommend printing it laying down, with brim and supports at a 100% fill; That’s what I did with this one and this one is strong enough to work in my lock without breaking and messing things up. I’ve added the original key to the photo to see the improvement. Bonus for the green color since it’s a keychain as well now

Photo background setup

Sometimes you want to make a photo with a white background; You can use one of them mini studio’s but they take up space and you need to set them up and break them down again every time because cats like those tents as well and white fabric doesn’t mix well with hair from cats, so using a single sheet of paper can be a nice alternative, this print makes sure the paper is bended in a way you won’t see it’s bended so it makes for a good background.

Cookie cutters

Everyone loves cookies right? I sure do and especially if they are fresh and warm. My girlfriend designed these cookie cutters in Illustrator and I created the 3D models for them. It was quite challenging to find the right settings to print this without huge blobs in the walls or gaps but these settings worked out nicely: 0% fill, 0.2 layer height, 7 first layers solid, 3 top layers solid, 2 perimeters 0.25 mm, the walls of the cutter are 0.6mm, there is no gap between the perimeters and using 0.30 mm causes artefacts in Slic3r. The _XT material is quite nice for cookie cutters since it’s food safe as well.

Failed print: Puzzle

It looks OK in this photo but actually it failed; the print tipped over just before it being finished rendering it unusable. Tip: Always add a 3 perimeter brim if your not sure it will stay upright. It had a lot of blobbing in the inside as well (looks like Slic3r again) but I could scrape most of it away with the tools. Design is on thingiverse.

Failed finish: Stamp

A 3D printed stamp with my company’s logo using Sugru, how much cooler can you get it? The print worked out fine (it’s a mould and a handle for the stamp) but unfortunately the Sugru got stuck in the grooves (the black parts you see) breaking my stamp after curing for 24 hours. It’s a pain to clean out but once I’m done with that I’ll try again.

Phone stand

This was a simple print, just adjust the parameters in OpenSCAD to your phone’s dimensions and print it without supports. Doesn’t take a lot of filament and is a perfect fit. Unfortunately there is some warping, possibly due to my lack of patience after the print finished Design can be found on youmagine.

Tea-bag/filter holder

I like tea, but I don’t like those damn bags, too wet to throw in my desk-bin but I have to leave them somewhere. This is a solution for that and it just works. There’s some blobbing on the edges, not sure why, but it fits great and does it’s job. Design on youmagine.

Flight controller casing

Came out a little messy but it fits nicely; It’s a housing for a flight controller (the popular KK2 board) for multi-copters. This is just a bare PCB with a small screen attached to it; This housing makes it a bit more friendly. Design is on thingiverse.

Daft punk helmet

Just a small test for some PLA from Colorfabb, got this design of Thingiverse. It got some great details but unfortunately a big part of the model looks like crap due to the printing on still liquid layers, hopefully this will get resolved soon

Lightblue Bean housing

A lightblue bean is a cool little Bluetooth LTE device based on the Arduino capable of being a iBeacon. In it’s bare for it’s just a PCB as you can see but it look pretty nice if you put it in this 3d printed housing from thingiverse (really like it with the transparent filament) . The back plate is a very tight fit and I needed to scrape of a lot of it but it was worth it and now it looks and feels like it should.

Xperia Z3 magnetic charging dock

I just got this phone and it’s great, but connecting that micro USB cable is annoying and it has a option to charge with a magnetic connector as well, but the dock isn’t available yet (or wasn’t at the time) and is 45 euro’s for a piece of plastic with a cable in it, so why not make it myself? Using illustrator for the shape and OpenSCAD for the 3d part of the design I designed and printed the dock, I had to print a fitting part for the cable later on since I didn’t have the cable yet but with some cutting and trying it worked out fine. I use this every day now to store and charge my phone and it only cost me some filament and a 5 euro cable.

Looking forward to see some more of your prints guys, so many roboxes out there and so few results on the forum just yet
Hopefully I will be printing again very soon

• This topic was modified 2 months, 2 weeks ago by  dave. Reason: Messed up formatting for tags

Hey Guys,

I’ve been experiencing this issue lately, it wasn’t there from the start but it is here now and it’s pretty annoying.
Once I start a print and the head start heating it starts oozing out filament causing a lot of unwanted filament on the heated bed; The calibration part after heating only makes this worse spreading it all out messing up my first layer and my nozzle gets pretty messy as well.

I made a small movie to show what I mean: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QlXVKUUJ5AY

In this example it only sticks to the last calibration point but I’ve had for worse (see attached photo).
It prints reasonable/good and I’ve done the nozzle opening calibration multiple times (which seems to work since it doesn’t flow after calibration once it says the nozzles are closed and it does when they open op) but once I start printing again this happens. I’ve had it with Colorfabb _XT filament but it’s most noticeable with the original white PLA.

Anyone else having this issue? Any clues on a solution?
Thanks!

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[daveParticipant]

I asked it in a ticket regarding some other issue and they told me it’s looking at the end of October (they shipped the filament over sea, takes a little longer ;)). My filament was running low as well so I just ordered some other 1.75mm filament and that works fine as well, just not as user friendly as the SmartReels. For translucent materials I can recommend Colorfabb _XT and I’ve heared Taulman t-glase works great as well.

• This reply was modified 2 months, 4 weeks ago by  dave.

[daveParticipant]

@milchkuh The default for Robox PLA it kinda matches the values Colorfabb gives, It’s really no issue on bigger shapes like the almost perfect cookie cutter on the attached photo but for smaller parts it sucks

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[daveParticipant]

It’s filament dependant; If you use Colorfabb _XT or PLA it usually just sticks right in front of the rubber wiper instead of being launched all around the machine.

[daveParticipant]

I printed a sample filament holder as well for my PLA Colorfabb samples: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:293382
Going to try those colours tomorrow

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