Search Results for 'amber'

[clickParticipant]

@i3randon There’s a way to heat the bed using g-commands:

M140 S115

would start heating bed to 115º.

M104 S190

would heat the nozzle to 190º.

After reading some previous posts and you here - I started wondering why is that important? To achieve ambient temperature?

Someone complained because ambient temperature not reaching what was needed and we suggested heating up bed and leaving it until it warms up the air in the chamber.

I did try it but my patience didn’t last too long - chamber’s temperature didn’t go up (it actually felt from 40º to 38º @ bed’s temperature of 100º) so I am not sure if that’s the way. On the other hand - start heating nozzle without pushing material through it might, again, not be the best idea. Not sure why - but maybe keeping plastic runny for long time and head really hot might cause some issues.

So, again - why do you think it is important? Why preheating bed + nozzle at the start of the print is not enough? I am just asking - not judging nor telling that it is not important…O : )

Hello,

My material tube, that goes from the start of the print chamber to the print head got undone at the start of the print chamber. I didn’t realize until the print was completely finished. So there was material everywhere and the print failed obviously. You can see the pictures, it explains better.

I tried to plug back in the plastic tube and purge the material, but that failed quickly. It got undone again.

I don’t know what to do

Thanks for any advice.

Sam

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[KopaParticipant]

Hello,

Iam using Robox since christmas. Green abs works fine. Also black seems to be fine, BUT white abs sucks!. I have done this project ( Assembly of ROBOX Dual Nozzle Head.) now couple times. I think that when you print small objects often, then calibrate and again print and abs dont flow enough it will burn inside the heating chamber. The design of the aluminium block (heating chamber) is bad i think too. Tomorrow i try again now yellow pla. If this shit happens again, i am going to do some modifications to heating module. I am going to try block the cavity to the another nozzle ( 0.8) that it wont get material at all. I use custom setting and use only one nozzle. It might even better if change it to 0.5 mm nozzle. I think too that there is something wrong in new AM. I found also that theres material all over the nozzles and printer head. Too much pressure or something like that…

Sorry for my bad English. I am quite frustrating to this machine.

[MiffMasterParticipant]

Hi fellow ROBOXers,

It’s been a while (holidays and piled up work after). But when the new version of AM arrived I could not resist any longer. Removed all my custom profiles and loaded up the new AM. Went through all the fancy calibration procedures and made a couple of tiny test prints. It sure was an improvement!

But that only lasted for a few hours of printing. And I see several others here have the same experience. The print head blew both needle gaskets and filled up with PLA. It was a mess!

I off cause opted to first try fixing it myself. Started to dis-assemble the head, nothing to complicated. But when it came to cleaning up the PLA i got stuck for a while. First attempt was to just break it away. However I soon realized this approach would likely end i disaster. Thought about dissolving the plastic, but had no solvent up to the task. Finally I fired up the soldering iron. Dialed it down to 210°C and began working the PLA off. It was very time consuming, but also very gentle. When I got to the inside of the melting chamber I found a lot of brownish hardened residue. I do not know if this is burnt plastic, or if some thread lock was used during assembly and got inside. But it was hell to remove. After several hours of cleanup, parts are almost as clean as new.

Unfortunately, I was way to focused to stop and think “I should take pictures of this”. I apologize for this. the good part is that I brought the parts home for assembly during the weekend. So I did get time to think during the bus ride home. Which means I have pictures of the assembly process!

Check this out Assembly of ROBOX Dual Nozzle Head.

On Monday I shall let you know how it went.

Good luck guys!

[azriParticipant]

Actually before the new update, i usually heat uP the nozzle and open the nozzles to relief pressure after i end a day of use. Now there isn’t a function to easily heat up the nozzles so i don’t practice that anymore and after a few days the seal has malfunctioned. They should add a function called relief nozzle pressure that clears the chamber after use.

I have shared 2 videos of what nozzle leaking and its inability to close looks like. I have heard that many people are facing this problem and am wondering if there is a problem with how the nozzles relief pressure when not in use. I suspect the nozzles seals get dented when the plastic material in the chamber is left there without releasing pressure after a print job. Anyway I have sent a ticket for this but surely i think a software change can solve this problem of seal being damaged.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_stdpvYnCW7ZTcwUDA0NE15OVk/view?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_stdpvYnCW7Y1VZVWVfM3hRQ00/view?usp=sharing

[clickParticipant]

@smitty If what you said is true - that is really cool.

@davidmason83 no need for it. Get the manual. Read the section 8.1.

What you want is something like:

M140 Sxxx where xxx is bed temperature. Please do not over do it as it might cause issues with the printer.

That will start bed heating. If you put it maybe 10º over ambient temperature you want - I am sure it will help raising chamber’s temperature to what you would like to achieve. I suspect you are not after melting internals of your printer.

Interesting thing is that there’s another command: M170 Sxxx which sets ambient temperature, but I don’t understand what they are for and how it is used for regulating ambient temperature.

[clickParticipant]

@prsbio Thanks!

“In the second print I added Auto support material. Its true it didnt warp but it did fill up the square hole with a sort of support network (interesting but not useful)”

Yes, I do understand that. Filling up square hole is probably some quirk from slicer, and how it caused it not warping is even more intriguing.

“In the tird print I changed support material to off, kept the brim at 3 and increased the fill density to 60% (it was 30% in the first 2 prints).”

“Maybe the higher density is making a more rigid structure which is less liable to warping?”

And this, now, completely messes up my logic. I though that fuller it is/more fill is in it more forces are going to pull and it would warp more! Now I am completely confused. (not your fault of course)

Did you do those prints somehow one after another? Maybe really temperature of the ‘chamber’ helped it? I did try something like that with properly insulating whole Robox (even my daughter’s soft toys helped - and still got some warping…

“And before each individual print I had cleaned the stage and the wipe blade with isopropyl alcohol.”

That definitively helps with first layer adhesion, but I didn’t find any direct correlation between cleanness of the bed and warping. Over time I did clean the bed before each print, but now I do it when it is clearly dirty (fingerprints smudges, etc).

I even tried with wider brim than 3 (you can set any number in profile) and brim did keep everything in place, but sharp corners - only they pulled up and around the brim! Eh. Maybe those sharp corners caused it (still didn’t get chance to rework my design for more rounded corners instead).

Still thanks - I’ll add this to my list of things to (re-)try.

[BHudsonParticipant]

@eddyogi

There is amber tape used to insulate the thermocouple wires. It is possible you are seeing this. The other possibility is that you are using red or orange filament and you have blown the seal on the needle valve. Take the head off and check to see if it is just the tape on the wires or if it is material coming from the top of the aluminum block. It should be pretty obvious.

If it is the tape, I wouldn’t worry about it.

If it is the seal, you need a new head.

I am not affiliated with CEL; I operate two Betas and one Production Robox.

Hello!

I’ve just notice some dark amber material oozing from my nozzle, looks like it is coming from the edge of what I think is the thermocouple. Is this the thermocouple glue? Has anyone had the same problem? And should I be jumping up and down with concern about this? My Robox seems to be working fine. I just don’t want it to burst into flames because the nozzle is overheating.

3d printing enthusiast

Hi,

I am sure this has come up sometime before, but the search feature yields no results, neither does the search function in the support site.

I wanted the MSDS for the PLA and ABS that Robox uses. I also read that Robox supports PC (Also MSDS), however I can’t find any vendor that supplies PC filaments. Where and when can I buy these other materials. What about Polycarbonate printing, I cant find any information on that, I know the Stratasys printers use a heated chamber to prevent deformation on materials that are not ABS, however this is patented and I know all other printers use a heated bed instead of a heated chamber, how does this affect print quality while using these other materials?

 

[CharlieParticipant]

Dylan,

I too am new to this game, and have the same problem as you . This part was made in ABS, Normal, with a 40% fill with no brim. I have to assume that the system should make an object such as this correctly; a little warp may be, but not 2 mm on 20 mm . The upper part looks nice and level. I suspect that the ambient temperature could be contributing to the problem. In one of the replies someone said that they increase the ambient from 45 to 55 ‘c. This run started at nowhere near this temperature (not a warm house!), it was possibly up there after about an hour (3 hour print total). I am going to make a small heater to go in the chamber and start the run at at least 45’C . I will let you know how it goes.

Regards

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