Search Results for 'PCTPE'

[Andy SParticipant]

The first material I tried when the robox first arrived but before it went back for CEL to get working was ABS and even in very small amounts of use it still stank. I have two reels of the stuff and things I wouldn’t mind using it for, but given the strength of the fumes I can’t see using it until the weather improves and I can fling some windows wide open!

The first material I tried after it came back repaired was PLA and while it had a bit of an odour (and possibly contributed to mild headaches) it was much less than the ABS. I could probably stand to use it but it’s still not terribly pleasant. I believe there is a study that did the rounds a few months back saying that PLA had about a twentieth of the emissions of ABS.

After printing the universal spool holder in PLA I switched over to T-Glase (“Clear” PET) and I love the stuff - no noticeable fumes at all, good finishes and durable to boot. It’s not cheap here (UK) but I’d still recommend it heartily.

Just recently I’ve done a few prints from a sample of PCTPE flexible filament and while its not what I expected it to be (Its more like stiff fabric than the rubber I had in mind when I heard flexible filament) it’s still pretty neat and I can see me ordering a reel next time I shop for filament. No detectable odour for this one either.

[robyneilParticipant]

Correction, the PCTPE settings were from @edthehorse:

http://www.cel-robox.com/forums/topic/taulman-pctpe/page/2/

The T-Glase settings were from @bhudson:

http://www.cel-robox.com/forums/topic/t-glass/

Thank you both,

@robyneil

[robyneilParticipant]

PCTPE Original Settings (I believe these are @bhudson‘s Material original profile):

Filament: 1.75mm
Filament multipler: 0.90
Feed rate multiplier: 1.00
Bed (1st layer): 60
Bed: 50
Nozzle (1st layer): 230
Nozzle: 215
Ambient: 38

 

PCTPE Drooploop Settings:

Filament: 1.75mm
Filament multipler : 0.70
Feed rate multiplier: 4.00
Bed (1st layer): 60
Bed: 50
Nozzle (1st layer): 230
Nozzle: 215
Ambient: 38

 

I also tried printing drooploop with PLA and it worked fairly well (round middle part had some bad slices??? producing small but not so noticable gaps..might be because I made round hollow with 0.5mm thickness) but not as good as the PCTPE prints for Drooploop:

Robox SmartReel PLA Polar White

Filament: 1.75mm
Filament multipler: 0.73
Feed rate multiplier: 5.00
Bed (1st layer): 70
Bed: 65
Nozzle (1st layer): 205
Nozzle: 195
Ambient: 30

[Andy SParticipant]

Nice work on the project.

You say those settings were chosen to get the PCTPE to droop?

What would your normal PCTPE settings look like?

I’ve got a sample of it I’ve not tried because the last I’d read was your post where you said you had repeated filament slip errors, so I’m curious now that it seems you have it printing reliably?

The kids and I completed this project for valentine’s day and my wife’s birthday.

It took awhile to get the material settings just right using an unusual feed rate multiplier of 4.00 to get the filament to droop with heavier loop instead of getting dragged by the nozzle and blown by the fan. The good news is no need to edit and turn off fan on gcode file (I was not able to override the fan head to off anyway). Printed without edits on gcode and can be printed with 1.5x speed (1.5x is too fast for petals so do following: keep speed 1.5x until layers where petals are printed , then when it start printing petal loops briefly move to any slower speed, then move back to 1.5x…this slows down the 1.5x to around 75% of the original 1.5x speed…probably a bug but took advantage of it).

 

Models:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:240158

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:28123

Note: For flowers I used MeshMixer to hollow out the big round with 0.5mm thickness to get it more translucent.

 

Materials:

Taulman PCTPE for flowers

Taulman T-Glase for vase

 

PCTPE filament tinting:

Rit Dye Powder (Golden Yellow, Sunshine Orange, Purple, Fushia)

See: http://richrap.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/3d-printing-with-nylon-618-filament-in.html

 

Stems:

Pipe cleaners

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

May help someone or please let me know if this is bad thing to do. A workaround on incessant filament slip warnings with the flexible Taulman PCTPE seemingly is to let the nozzle cool down to around <= 43 degrees (15-20 minutes) before clicking Clear and Continue to resume the print. PCTPE seems to have a lot of filament slip problems from scanning forums.

I’ve been experimenting with the Taulman PCTPE for a week now and have been getting problems with incessant filament slip warnings. Even if I choose to Clear and Continue, I eventually would hear filament popping, see steam puffing out and get the filament slip warning again. Worst, the steam would sometimes condense on the extruder and produce dark amber colored sticky blobs. Eventually, I’d just stop the print since it’d take forever to keep clearing and resuming. I inspected my dual extruder head and everything seems fine by the way.

Basically, I had to cancel a couple of large prints when they’re around 70-90% done. It is a damn shame since the PCTPE prints looked better than my ABS prints. Support material was easier to remove as well.

Changing the nozzle temperature from 225 to 215 seemed to have solved the puffing steam problem and occasional amber blobbing, but I still get the filament slip warnings. Finally I found that when I do get a filament slip warning, letting the nozzle temperature cool down first keeps the filament from slipping again and finish my print. I’ve done this with 2 prints now and will continue doing so.

Attached is a a print of MLP Spike with Taulman PCTPE. Cura unfortunately didn’t slice the eyes and ears properly but everything else looks fine.

• This topic was modified 3 months, 2 weeks ago by  robyneil.

Attachments:

You must be logged in to view attached files.

[EdParticipant]

….i really need flexible material to!
The nylon PCTPE from taulmann worked … but its nylon..and i need flexible filament to fuse with pla or abs.., is that anyway possible? I have ninja flex and have the same problem… you can find information about baking the filament to make it dry. i will try it now.. i need the flex… =/

Soft PLA ?

the forum freaks out when i add a link…

[AimdyParticipant]

the steam means that your filament is not completely dry, it is just water vapor and a little bit of it is normal with nylon every so often, i keep mine in a box with an eva-dry unit as suggested by @bhudson, he has more experience with nylon and can chime in with some possible tips. i did quite a bit of printing with nylon but the majority eventually failed due to skipping issues, i did not have any issues with curling and printed with a similar profile as abs but with higher temp and with the bed at 70, that stuff stuck to the bed like a charm and printed beautifully, however pctpe is different and has different temp requirement and since i have not tried it, it is hard to compare them. For blobbing issues, you may need to re-calibrate your machine because this is a new material you are using, both the nozzle opening and nozzle height. For the nozzle opening there is a trick described on the roboxing wizard, try it out and see if it helps, and the nozzle height re-calibration should help the material stick better to the plate. If you play around with the multiplier values you could also refine your prints and reduce if not eliminate the blobbing you are experiencing. Let us know how you do and let us see your profiles once you have perfected them.

http://roboxing.com/calibrate_nozzle_opening

Moh

[BHudsonParticipant]

PCTPE has the highest chance of working in the Robox. I have tried ZenWorks flexible and while it feeds, I have not found the ideal settings for it since it takes so much time to try to get everything working. I will continue my research though and report anything I find. I can say that the easiest way to feed anything flexible or brittle is to remove the side of the Robox and the lower filament guide and run the filament directly into the extruder.

I am not affiliated with CEL; I operate two Betas and one Production Robox.

[EdParticipant]

i will try the ninja flex so far check the taulman pctpe

http://www.cel-robox.com/forums/topic/taulman-pctpe/

[EdParticipant]

1st i had this problem only with the with pla

i have robox white black red pla
green and black abs
taulman pctpe and t-glass cause of recommendation here in the forum

When you empty a reel u can fill it up with what u want and create/load a material profile. If you like the settings then u can reprogram your reel in the side panel of the status screen and it will stay with the profile u added.

http://www.cel-robox.com/forums/topic/taulman-pctpe/page/2/

in this post check the picture of the settings, there is the place to change the material settings to what you need, its in a side panel of the last screen before u click go.

I checked taulman for the settings for the nylon and tested it.

• This reply was modified 4 months, 1 week ago by  Ed.

[MattParticipant]

Ah. Join the club. I would have thought the SmartReel would be the best it needs to be for the Robox. Strange.

Doesn’t the Taulman PCTPE on a SmartReel confuse the Robox printer - or are the settings the same?