Search Results for 'EEPROM'

[smittyParticipant]

ha ha yes im chomping at the bit,just like the look of colour fabb filament ,its not the cheapest out there but it gets very good reviews and has a fantastic selection of colours ,I’ve seen the colour fabb spool holder that one of the guys off the community printed ,when im more comfortable using the printer then i will give it a go but i will wait a bit before i attempt to print that as i want to try and get small prints dialled in so to speak ,ordered the black reels so i would have my favourite colours on hand that id have on the eeprom reel so my settings would be stored and ready to go

smitty

[ClickyParticipant]

You are too keen to print with some other non CEL filament you can always print out couple of these reels and put material on them. Robox can print without having EEPROMed reel in.
Alternatively - you can devise way of keeping reels of other material somehow next to Robox and print directly of their reels…

As previously said here: http://www.cel-robox.com/forums/topic/reels-with-eeprom/#post-6580 - here is a first (small) Robox reel. Printed by Robox, of course.

It is not my intention to replace CEL Robox reels, but to bridge gap between their availability and my current needs. I really want to print with different colours and materials and having ‘proper’ reel is slightly better than third party spool holders that take extra space next to Robox.

Also, I wanted to try out samples as well… Oh, BTW picture is not showing the best result - bottom of the reel I forgot to return solid top layers, middle is wrong for a few reasons - only top part (second picture) is good print… I’ll slowly replace other two as I go along.

Now, my intention is to expand on this and create ‘narrower’ version of the reel for just samples (20mm wide) and ‘triple’ reel with three 20mm wide spaces (for different samples on the same reel. It should be designed in such way to allow one to print only middle bit and then add one or two ‘expansions’…

.stl and .skp (sketchup) files are to follow. I still need to try out ‘fixes’ for middle part of the reel first.

Also, it would be really nice if someone wants to collaborate on spool winder - device that would nicely wind filament to this or original reel. I see it using modified standard (or slightly smaller) cheap servo for continuous rotation for rotating reel, another for moving guide along the width for guiding filament nicely on it, Arduino for controlling it and… I haven’t figured yet now to make a tension and detect end of the filament.

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[Anonymous]

I gave up with the silly bits of paper under the nozzle idea of calibration. It doesn’t work, it’s not accurate enough.

I don’t understand how it can. For starters, ABS and PLA have different viscosities when they exit the nozzles. The nozzles need to be *exactly* the right height above the bed so that the filament is compressed enough to adhere to the bed but not squashed flat.

IMHO, the only way to do that is to use the nozzle height settings and test print the first & second layers of a small print repeatedly until you get the perfect initial layers for your printer and that particular material.

But at the back of my mind, I can’t help wondering why there isn’t an exact measurement for these materials that could be stored on the reel EEPROM.

After, the printer knows the bed height. There must be an exact measurement for a given nozzle and bed temperature to raise the head for a particular material. It’s just physics, chemistry and basic engineering. It’s not magic.

I’m not sure why we should have to calibrate them manually at all - unless the head sensor detecting the bed isn’t accurate enough? If that’s the case, then why don’t CEL supply a metal feeler gauge for the two materials? At least that would remove some of the subjectivity, and get the user in the right ball park to start with. They can fine tune it later.

[T. BurnsParticipant]

Hi,

I wonder that this is necessary to do manually. I thought that Automaker is doing this automatically depending on the EEPROM of the reel.

I thought it detects the ABS reel and automatically changes the size parameters to get a 100% sized object.

But it does not? Why not?

 

[Chris WhiteKeymaster]

Some of this info might help you out:

Datasheet for Robox PLA - NatureWorks 4043D:

http://www.natureworksllc.com/~/media/Technical_Resources/Technical_Data_Sheets/TechnicalDataSheet_4043D_films_pdf.pdf

(4 hours at 80°C in a commercial pellet dryer)

Datasheet for Robox ABS - Chi Mei Polylac 747:

http://www.chimeicorp.com/upload/att/2012-11/201211021044552039775.pdf

(2-4 hours at 80-85°C in a commercial pellet dryer)

Datasheet for EEPROM:

http://www.atmel.com/images/Atmel-8787-SEEPROM-AT24C04C-08C-Datasheet.pdf

(Operation MAX 85°C, Storage/Reflow MAX 150°C)

I must admit, oven heating sounds like a bad idea - the drying instructions you’ll find in the materials datasheet are referring to blowing hot air through polymer pellets in a commercial dryer - we’re not sure of the effects on filament (diameter/roundness tolerance, sticking to itself, reheating degradation etc. etc.), I believe enough silicagel will ‘suck’ moisture from filament. I remember @bhudson mentioning some colour changing Silicagel that you can recharge by heating/microwaving - I bought some, and a large ‘scuba’ hermetically sealed box, but haven’t really had chance to test it out yet! Busy, busy, busy…

http://www.bluestarpackaging.co.uk/silica-gel-dessicant—self-indicating-loose-476-p.asp

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00CYGD8YI/ref=pe_385721_37038051_TE_3p_dp_1

Let us know how you get on…

[gidParticipant]

I expect it’ll be fine. The labels might suffer. I’m sure the EEPROM and PCB will cope with it. I’m not sure 100ºC is necessary though: I bet 50ºC - 60ºC in the right conditions would work to some degree and would avoid other issues (eg. PLA getting sticky)

As a crazy idea, I’m wondering if there’s any mileage in rigging up a vacuum pump to try to boil off the moisture that way. Hmm.

Tom Gidden -- Bristol, UK -- New Roboxer? Check out the wiki, and add yourself to the map! http://roboxing.com/user_locations

[Dr. WooParticipant]

On drying the filament in the oven: See my initial question 3.b. We need to know whether the Roboxo SmartReel’s EEPROM can withstand the heat? 100°C, that’s quite a bit. @pete?

Those of us who are new to 3d printing, are probably not aware of the fact that PLA is highly hydrophilic and will quickly uptake atmospheric moisture. The water molecules in the filament can then lead to unexpected print results. It is therefore recommended to store the PLA filament in a sealed bag together with Silica gel pouches, when not in use.

The community at roboxing.com is therefore about to write a Wiki page on how to properly store filaments and cure filament which „got wet“. You can support the effort by replying to the following questions hereafter and/or can become a roboxing member and contribute to that page at roboxing.com/how_to_properly_store_and_cure_3d_printing_filaments.

Questions to be answered and content needed:

1. Pictures of 3d prints which show clear signs of water in the filament and descriptions of such.
2. How fast does the PLA attract moisture? How long can it sit on the Robox’s reel holder before a moisture saturation becomes noticeable (given that your office is not located in the Rainforest or by the sea)?
3. When curing/drying „wet“ filament in the oven:
   • For how long at which temperature?
   • Can the Robox SmartReel EEPROM withstand that temperature without any problems?
4. Are other filament types such as ABS, Nylon, etc. hydrophilic too and need special treatment as well?

I recently began experimenting with my Kickstarter Robox. I’m impressed with the hardware and its potential, but I’m plagued by the fact that the filament from the 0.3 mm nozzle does not extrude… cleanly. It comes out the nozzle and immediately turns, making “squiggles” instead of lying down. This happens with both PLA and ABS, as shown in the attached screenshot from a material change purge. Note that the larger 0.8mm nozzle has no problem with the default extrusion rate. There is at least double the necessary amount of material extruded in those 0.3 mm lines! Now, I don’t think this is a hardware problem. I think it’s a setting issue, specifically, the extrusion rate for the fine nozzle.

I believe essentially all of my issues with print quality come down to this. When printing “normal” areas it generally is constrained by back pressure from previous layers, but it makes little dangling loops when doing overhangs or bridges instead of lying flat. I speculate that the extruder is pushing too hard for the 0.3mm nozzle to physically handle. Much like cake icing or toothpaste, if you push too hard the flow isn’t smooth… For reference, a great blog post about extrusion rates limits: http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/18/exploring-extrusion-variability-and-limits/

This may be why people with the new, more powerful extruder are paradoxically having issues with filament hanging up or seriously gouged filament to the point where it can’t grab anymore. The extruder is constantly almost skipping, because the fine nozzle can’t pass that much material.

If I’m correct, the solution should be to reduce the fine nozzle extrusion rate. I’d like to test this hypothesis, but want to make sure I’m modifying the right settings. Can someone confirm Ejection volume (set 0.6 from factory for the smaller nozzle) the correct setting to tweak in this case?

Thanks guys, I’ll report my results in the next few days - and if anyone else experiments, post below. Finally, if this really helps it seems to make it the default I’d have to overwrite the reel’s EEPROM, is that correct?

• This topic was modified 3 months ago by  physicsmajor.

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[gidParticipant]

As far as the filament door’s concerned, I don’t think it’s worth doing unless it’s done well.

What I think I’d do if I were CEL (which is NOT necessarily the same as what I think might be the best solution!) is to make the SmartReels closed containers. An outer non-moving torodial container would be fixed to the current non-moving inner hub including the EEPROM. This would wholly contain a free-to-move reel just like the current one, but without the spokes. The container could be a two-part split on the circumference, or perhaps like CD/DVD cake boxes, except with a second internal thread to seal the inside circumference from the hub. The filament itself would exit via a port in the outer container with a very soft grommet. I’m not sure if that would be enough to block humidity well enough, but it’s a thought. Maybe include a few gel pouches inside the torus.

That would add an extra raison d’être for the proprietary SmartReel model and wouldn’t cost much to add to the existing design.

• This reply was modified 3 months ago by  gid.

Tom Gidden -- Bristol, UK -- New Roboxer? Check out the wiki, and add yourself to the map! http://roboxing.com/user_locations

[BHudsonParticipant]

Wow. Old thread.

After buying several hundred dollars in material, I see that there seems to be three or four designs of reels out there. I have repurposed a turntable I built to hold industrial thread spools on my sewing machine for the Robox. I am thinking though that I will look into a EEPROM card that I can store with my filament that isn’t on a smart reel so that I don’t have to select the profiles by hand. Less chance of making a mistake.