This topic contains 28 replies, has 11 voices, and was last updated by Dave 1 year, 7 months ago.
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AnonymousHo ho ho, is it Christmas? 😉
No such thing as perfect.
Once I get my Robox started again, I’ll be doing a few pyramids.
I actually got it back last night, but with the new firmware so I can’t actually use it with AutoMaker 1.00.12 yet. The test prints CEL did with it are excellent, and all with ABS at 100µm. I can’t wait to see how it does with 50µm.
Tom Gidden -- Bristol, UK
@gid, same as me, new (future rev) firmware and freshly repaired Robox . . . . .. I’m running the new firmware and AM 1.00.12 though . . . seems ok to me?
@bespokeproductdesign Mine won’t stop demanding that I downgrade to r679, and fails when it tries. If I say “Don’t Downgrade” it just asks again. If I keep clicking it has a strop and refuses to recognise it at all.
Tom Gidden -- Bristol, UK
Turns out the complaining is limited to Mac and Linux. They’ve got mine up-and-running again, and it’s churning out white ABS pyramids right now and doing a great job of it.
I’ve done Default Draft (300µm), Default Normal (200µm) and Default Fine (100µm), and am just waiting on Ultra Fine (ie. Fine at 50µm). I’ll see about doing a Hyper Fine (ie. Fine at 20µm) but only if it’ll take a reasonable amount of time.
Tom Gidden -- Bristol, UK
I literally dusted off my Canon EOS 300D (which hasn’t been used or charged since 2010, thanks to the iPhone) and taken shots of the default Draft, Normal and Fine prints. Then I realised that camera is basically worthless nowadays, and got out my slightly newer Canon S95 point-and-shoot. Still not great, so I’m now wondering whether it’s worth shelling out for a new dSLR (Canon 100D?)
Anyway, here’s a shot of the Default Draft (20% fill, 300µm, ~15 minutes), Default Normal (20%, 200µm, ~15 minutes), Default Fine (40%, 100µm, 45 minutes), and Ultra Fine (ie. Fine at 40%, 50µm, 75 minutes) prints, warts and all.
Close-ups really exaggerate the surface features. The 100µm and 50µm really are very good with the 50µm layers not being visible when looked at naturally (eg. 50cm from the eye). In fact, it just feels like a “matt” surface rather than being layered.
I assume the ridge 2/3rds of the way up is a slicing error. Each has a varying amount of apex blobbage, which is a known issue but solvable by printing a dummy object (eg. a second pyramid) in parallel, or perhaps tweaking the settings to slow down the quicker layers.
The Normal (200µm) print does suffer from a bit of mess caused by shifting between nozzles. I’ve heard this might be significantly improved in the next update.
I’m not going to bother with a 20µm print at this time as I have to go out now. The model is available here: http://roboxing.com/things/pyramid1
Tom Gidden -- Bristol, UK
I can get good 50 micron prints for the most part, but the top layers are still a problem, looks like I’m not the only one though.
There is a feature - “Go Slow If Layer Time < ___ seconds” - http://roboxing.com/settings/go_slow_if_layer_time - that might fix this: set the nozzle speed really slow if layer is less than, say, 10 seconds. I haven’t had a chance to try it yet.
Tom Gidden -- Bristol, UK
As far as the ridge is concerned, this Slic3r error, peculiarity or misconfiguration: it’s in the GCode that gets fed back into AutoMaker.
Layers 0 - 6 are fairly solid. Layers 7 - 210 are “open weave” with the desired fill of ~40%. All layers 211 and above are solid again.
Presumably the layer fill limits the amount of shrinkage? Anyway, that sharp transition is the problem.
Tom Gidden -- Bristol, UK
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