This topic contains 6 replies, has 6 voices, and was last updated by IngBGK 4 weeks ago.
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I have not entirely resolved the filament not sticking to PEI bed that was really bad a couple of months back. I would say that the improvement is 80% but it’s that elusive 20% that discourages me from printing anything ambitious. I saw a fantastic organic style Art Nouveau lamp on one site but it said that the print took over two days! There’s little point attempting that if it could go wrong at any time. I have reduced the Z height, which may be part of the improvement and I clean the bed with an IPA wipe - although it still prints without. I have also found that I cannot print multiples of any part in the same session. It prints one okay but at half way one of the other copies becomes unstuck, then the filament just spews out without any registering any longer. This does seem odd to me because I have printed some big prints that extend all across the PEI and yet if I try to print two screws for example, one slips. So now I just print one part at any one session and this works 9 times out of ten.
@paulsroom, this is particularly an issue with abs, other materials recommended on the forum like T-glase do not have this issue, but other than being vetted by us they have not been vetted by Cel so it is a personal choice if you want to switch material. For ABS even with the best configurations, every so often you can get some issues with the material sticking, i believe that on the next release of AM, given that the calibration is much more precise there it should give you much better results, at least I and others who have tested it have praised its improvements and the fact that Cel listened to the feedback we provided them in attempting to refine the software further, so all hope is not lost. One trick that helped me immensely in the first layer in my experimenting was to activate the the skirt function, and printing about 3 or more skirts prior to beginning the print, this helped a lot for my first layer somehow. There are videos on youtube on how to do so, however this will only be possible with this version of AM, the next version does not have this feature from what I saw in the print profile, but Cel plans to bring it back in a later version. Before using the skirt function, have you used the brim function to help your prints stick better to the bed?
MohAimdy I use the brim feature - set at 2 and sometimes 3 - on all small parts and any that I feel have a small base and this certainly has improved the situation. I am aware of the problems that ABS appears to present from reading the different posts on this forum. I shall definitely be changing material relatively soon but would like to see what effects the upgrade to AutoMaker produces. I am not desparately concerned about the occasional non-sticking problem, but would naturally like to be able to guarantee a good and trouble-free print every time. I don’t want my natural pragmatism to just let me resign myself to the situation. For me the wonder of being able to print in 3D a solid plastic part is still an absolute excitement and I have printed some very useful parts now. But of course I always want the highest perfection possible.
I’ve had issues with adhesion of ABS when the object is either greater than say 4cm by 4cm or is not placed centrally. Maybe the temperature is not even on the stage or it could be a Z-axis problem as the stage looks a little bowed. Maybe a bit of both?
I was trying to print a part in ABS last night… one that I’ve printed many iterations of for the past few days, but this time it just would not do a good first layer, no matter how much I tweaked the settings. The first layer perimeters kept coming up and making a mess.
Finally I gave up and left it for an hour. When I came back and had another go, it worked. My hypothesis is that these things sometimes benefit from a cooldown.
So, if stuck in a repeated loop of failed first layers, give it a chance to cool down and then have another go.
Just a thought…
Tom Gidden -- Bristol, UK -- New Roboxer? Check out the wiki, and add yourself to the map! http://roboxing.com/user_locations@gid I’ve seen that kind of temperamental behaviour. Strange thing is that I’ve seen it actually other way round: I tried once - it failed. Pealed off all from still hot bed, tried again - it failed. Pealed it off again, cleaned it while hot, tried again and it worked.
Actually - I do remember at least once what I let it cool down half way (so cleaning is not ‘burning my fingers’) and it worked. I usually contributed it to:
a) cleaning it better than before
b) pushing PEI down (while cleaning it) and making it flatter…
But - as your, those are only working theories, nothing more.
Ok, this thread is two month and three weeks old. However I’m facing similar problems.
The last few weeks my main material was the Polar White PLA and it sticked to the bed quite well. Yesterday I wanted to test and use Cornflower Blue PLA. In all test runs except one I had the mess as described in the posts above (material around the head/nozzles). The one and only print that worked quite well was the second x/y calibration print. That was encouraging but the next try also failed. Then I switched back to Polar White PLA and was able to do a print with a rather good result.
Looking at this thread I get the impression that it may work with a portion of luck, changed circumstances and the moon in the right position.
However the Polar White reel has Rev 4 while the Cornflower Blue one has Rev 5. Therefore I thought maybe the information on the eeproms how to handle it is different. Maybe the bed temperature is another?
Whatever, I will give it another try, clean the bed thoroughly and place the print into its middle. (Edit: and maybe with other bed temperatures as well.)
- This reply was modified 4 weeks ago by IngBGK.
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