Search Results for 'm104'

[PetriParticipant]

Finally received my printer from the dealer. Looks just like the old one. In the receipt there is only mentioned that the head is REV2.

I can’t get this to work. After I loaded the filament and started to do calibrations problems occurred. Looks like I get the N/A showing for current nozzle temperature. Even why I manually send the M104 code, the nozzle will not heat up or AM show any temperature. The problem is that I can not remove the head because the filament is loaded and can not eject because the nozzle won’t heat up.

 

I am losing my hopes with the Robox. I think that I just send this one back and ask my money back.

 

EDIT. Where can you tell that what model the printer is? In marketing images the door lock pin is red and the “floor” panel is black. I have black pin and the floor panel is polished metal.

[clickParticipant]

If anyone’s interested -I’ve just concluded successful experiment where I have send gcode (produced and prepared by AM) to Robox from Raspberry Pi connected to it (remotely connecting to Raspberry Pi over network from 10-ish miles away). It isn’t straight forward just copy .gcode file and invoke rbx send -f xxx_robox.gcode -id testjob3 followed by rbx start testjob3 - but I needed to replace all instances of M103/M104/M139 and M140 with variants that have specific temperature added next to the command.

Anyway, that’s less important - more important thing was that I send wrong gcode file (eh) and monitored it while it printed first few layers (where I noticed that I fetched wrong file) and successfully aborted print - all of it being away from the printer.

Next it to start long print (13+ hours) early in the morning before going to work and monitor printer from place I am currently working knowing that I can, at any moment, stop it if things started going wrong…

Code is in github…

Changed a reel, purged it. Then proceeded to print a shape. The reel is PLA Polar White, with a normal nozzle temp of 185°C. But it is printing at ~215°C! See picture for more details. BTW, the screen shot was NOT taken on the first layer. I don’t understand how I could correct this error.

Should I just use the M104 command at every start of a print job to adjust to the right nozzle temp?

Is there a way I could solve this?

Thanks!

Sam

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[clickParticipant]

@i3randon There’s a way to heat the bed using g-commands:

M140 S115

would start heating bed to 115º.

M104 S190

would heat the nozzle to 190º.

After reading some previous posts and you here - I started wondering why is that important? To achieve ambient temperature?

Someone complained because ambient temperature not reaching what was needed and we suggested heating up bed and leaving it until it warms up the air in the chamber.

I did try it but my patience didn’t last too long - chamber’s temperature didn’t go up (it actually felt from 40º to 38º @ bed’s temperature of 100º) so I am not sure if that’s the way. On the other hand - start heating nozzle without pushing material through it might, again, not be the best idea. Not sure why - but maybe keeping plastic runny for long time and head really hot might cause some issues.

So, again - why do you think it is important? Why preheating bed + nozzle at the start of the print is not enough? I am just asking - not judging nor telling that it is not important…O : )

[Omega64Participant]

By the way, M104 alone sets the nozzle temperature using the reel’s profile for the 2nd+ layer.

M103 instead sets the nozzle temp using the reel’s profile for the 1st layer.

Now, when you override with a value (S) different than 0, you lose information, as, to make an example:

we are using an ABS filament

M104 ; sets nozzle temperature to 235 (because this info is in the reel)

M104 S200 ; sets the nozzle temperature to 200C

M104 S0 ; turns off the nozzle’s heater

M104 ; you would guess that it sets to 235C, but it sets it to 200C

so information is destroyed/lost.

AutoMaker of course can retried the info back by other means, but by purely using GCode, you lose the information by using the S override with anything different than 0.

 

[gidParticipant]

@elussya : I strongly recommend that when suggesting the use of M104 Sxxx, you also mention “M104 S0″, ie. the command to switch the heater _off_ once you’re done with it!

Tom Gidden -- Bristol, UK -- New Roboxer? Check out the wiki, and add yourself to the map! http://roboxing.com/user_locations

[SeveranceParticipant]

Terry,

 

Try using the M104 command - it still works.

M104= Set nozzle target temperature S=Override Temperature °C

This command sets the nozzle temperature using data supplied from the reel EEPROM. provides a manual override for custom temperature.

e.g. M104 will set the nozzle temperature to the value stored on the reel / previous value sent, M104 S205 sets it to 205°C.

• This reply was modified 3 months, 3 weeks ago by  Severance.
• This reply was modified 3 months, 3 weeks ago by  Severance.

[azriParticipant]

@clicky Sad to say, there is only one m104 and m140 which sets temperature to pre print nozzle temp and nozzle temp which happens at the start which rules out software issues.

[clickParticipant]

@azk13 Yes - it is clearly visible from avi file. It would be really interesting seeing what gcode is like for layer 12, 13 and 14! It almost looks like you have:

M104 S180 at the end of layer 13 and then in next layer

M104 S190

M109

at the beginning of layer 14…

Did you check? Alternatively - post gcode here and we’ll have a quick peek into it…

Since all other things are quite correct - rest of the time temperature is very closely kept to expected, I don’t immediately suspect hardware issue. Yes - definitively share gcode if you are allowed - 3d visualisation can give us some more clue what is happening with those layers. (and yes, I am promoting my gcode preview! O : )

 

[clickParticipant]

Is it same print you did? If so - same time?

Is it worth sharing gcode here so we can check if there is something in it?

Theoretically there might be some deliberate cooling down and heating up in the gcode. Anyway you can always search gcode text file for M104 followed by Sxxx value.

BTW I didn’t notice anything similar but didn’t really watch carefully.

[RenéParticipant]

Dear all,

finally it’s weekend and I have some time to work on my filametn stuck problem.
I got a link from CEL which I should follow to solve my problem:

https://robox.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/1000155185-eject-stuck-material

1. Heat up the head to 150°C using the GCode console - M104 S150 - and wait for it to reach temperature.
2. Press the ‘Fill Nozzle’ button on the toolbar, followed by ‘Open Nozzle’.
3. Try feeding material into the head using the manual extrusion buttons (the arrows on top of the reel on the status screen) - click +20 until material starts to flow from the fill nozzle.
4. If you don’t see any material, you may have a small blockage in the filament inlet path which is preventing ‘fresh’ filament from getting to the head.
5. Press the ‘Remove Head’ button on the toolbar of the status screen.
6. <b>IMPORTANT! </b>Switch off Robox using the power switch on the rear - try to move quickly as you’re trying to keep the head at temperature while you remove the filament.
7. Unscrew the head from the carriage and pull away - if the force required at this stage is very large (i.e. filament is still stuck inside the head), just pull it away far enough that the pogo pins have no chance of making an intermittent connection (otherwise you could cause fatal damage) - and try <b>NOT</b> to break the filament.
8. If it’s still stuck in the head, turn Robox back on, and use the manual extrusion buttons (the arrows on top of the reel on the status screen) to feed out ~50mm of filament, effectively pushing the head away from the carriage.
9. Cut off the filament as close to the carriage as possible i.e. leaving about 50mm of filament sticking out of the back of the head.
10. Press the ‘Eject Filament’ button on the toolbar, and your filament should eject all of the way back to the reel.
11. <b>IMPORTANT! </b>Switch off Robox using the power switch on the rear and then reinstall the head in the carriage, feeding the 50mm filament back up the Bowden tube and ensuring the HeadLock screw is tight.
12. Turn Robox on again and heat up the head to 150°C - leave it for 5 minutes to allow the temperature of the heatsink to stabilise.
13. Open the fill nozzle using the manual control buttons on the toolbar.
14. Turn off Robox and remove the head.
15. Use a pair of pliers to force the filament into the head, and out of the nozzle, then pull back the filament to remove it. (more instructions here Manual purge)
16. Reinstall the head, reload filament, then perform a nozzle opening calibration.

I have some problems:

5. Press the ‘Remove Head’ button on the toolbar of the status screen.

I have the German version of AM. Where is the ‘Remove Head’ button please?

 

• This reply was modified 3 months, 4 weeks ago by  René.

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[clickParticipant]

@mistsoul Now, there are two separate issues here:

1. should AM automatically account for ABS shrinkage and how, and

2. should AM allow decimal places in scaling

For 2. I believe it should allow at least one decimal place, and regarding 1… Well - not 100% sure that link you pasted was talking about AM (and Robox in matter of fact) automatically adjusting for ABS. It was more fine tuning accuracy where extruded width/depth/height wasn’t 100% correct (nor 99.99% in that matter).

Correct me if I misunderstand, but AM does not - nor probably will automatically correct for ABS (nor other material) shrinkage. It was thought that it does but proven wrong.

And last bit - you got me with quoting my older post : I was about to write something similar again (plug rambling should it really be M103 or M104 and I think that there’s no difference if printer is not printing a job) but got distracted (needed to do my work, too O : ) and didn’t. Good as I completely forgot about that post and would be repeating myself.