Search Results for 'goo'

[robyneilParticipant]

Still on my holiday vacation…every couple of hours I would restart AM just to see if the Cura update is now available or check the download page.

I want to be able to print amazing details like these:

http://ksn-art.deviantart.com/

since they’re based off Cura (printed from Ultimaker 2), I have high hopes. Anything close is good. I’ll be happy with any improvements we get since this is the high bar.

Manifesting ideas is still difficult, but at least we're one step closer...

[stevnkrnParticipant]

With my first head I got a completely plugged .3 nozzle about three days after I got my Robox. That supposedly lead to the seal failure, at least that is what CEL’s service technician at the time finally determined once it was returned. Back in those days CEL had zero replacement parts, so over the course of several weeks I got a communication from CEL every 3-4 days telling me to try this or try that. None of it worked. Eventually they told me to send it back and they ended up sending me a “rebuilt” head. That one had the B-axis error right out of the box and never did work. Again CEL went back to their standard try this and try that routine for about three weeks before finally admitting that it was broken and asking me to send head number two back to them.

Then they sent me my current head, along with a new main circuit board. I was told that the B-axis error could be caused by a bad solder joint on the main circuit board, which is why they sent the board and a new head. I really appreciated that after all the trouble I had had. After putting in the new head and circuit board I finally had a Robox that worked. During that period I ran the Robox for 4-5 hours per day on average and made quite a few parts. Some were actually quite good, so I finally had a chance to see the potential of the Robox.

Unfortunately, that success was short lived because three weeks after installing he new head and circuit board the bowden tube blew out of the extruder. It took about 1-1/2 weeks for CEL to respond to that service ticket and ship me out one of the new bowden tubes (Thankfully I just got that today). I was not able to get my original tube to stay in initially, but after trying for several days I eventually found a way to keep the bowden release collar out, which allowed me to keep the bowden in long enough to make a few parts. Then the seal failure happened that I showed in the original post of this thread. It looks identical to what my first head looked like when I sent it back, so I know its a valve seal failure.

Currently I can run parts, but it does not take long for plastic to drip down out of the head onto any parts I am making. It really makes a mess of the parts so it is not even worth doing. I invested in some dental instruments to try and scrap the plastic out from inside the head, but I just can’t clean out enough to make a difference. The heads cool down too quickly and I can’t get to all the places the plastic has gotten. So now I impatiently wait for CEL to respond to yet another service ticket, debug the failure, authorize me send my head back, and eventually send me a new head.

[RobsonParticipant]

@stevnkrn , I doubt I will hear from them anytime soon considering it’s christmas / new year holidays.

But it does not sound good if so many people have the same problem with their printheads..

Last time you had this problem was it a broken seal or anything you might be able to fix yourself??

I will bump this thread when I hear from CEL support team..

[paulsroomParticipant]

I am wondering if the ‘fine’ setting has problems when it comes to overhangs. I printed one item with three different settings. All of them are functional but present widely different finishes. The first was printed without support struts and while the top section was thinner than it should have been, it was usable. I added support struts (in Meshmixer) for the second without changing the settings. The supports broke off very easily and the overall finish is good. However I decided to sharpen the pin protrusions and changed the setting to ‘fine’. I’ll have to machine the bits of support struts off since these did not break off so easily - otherwise everything is okay. These are the first prints I’ve done for which I added support struts. I’ve been trying to only print parts where no overhang is present and have had no problems with finish - no extraneous filament. I’ve just tried to print another part with an overhang at the top for which I put the setting at ‘fine’ and added a support strut. It printed all the first solid section fine but then just lost it when it got to the overhang. I’m using Chroma-green ABS.

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[ClickyParticipant]

Oh, that’s not good. BTW maybe you should wait for bed to completely cool down. All my prints got off bed very, very easily - but only when bed got down to cold. When hot it would be almost impossible to take the prints off. Definitively no sharp tools and scraping the bed.

Anyway - there’s another way I’ve heard people doing: taking the bed out and gently bending it to remove objects.

Also, if you have heavily scratched one side of the bed, maybe you should take it out and put it other side up.

[ClickyParticipant]

Oh - that’s not fair comparison:

@kingmar ‘s prints were done with existing AM which doesn’t do retracts, slicing done with Slic3r, etc..

@smitty ‘s prints done with beta version of AM 1.01 which produces completely different gcode and as result prints end up being much neater.

@kingmar I think you should wait until rest of us are give much better software to print with and re-try prints then. I had similar print as @smitty put aside to print it over Christmas period (now when I am at home and can start print that lasts 8-9 hours), but even though was first to apply for beta testing wasn’t good enough for CEL’s Santa and it will need to wait another long-ish weekend without anything else family planned to give it a go… And printer that works

[smittyParticipant]

@clicky i take it your using pritstick ? maybe you could use the blue painters tape method ,im sure you’ll get good adhesion that way

smitty

ok, i printed a needle holder, and it came out ok, then i tried to print the owl necklace with laywoo-d3 disaster!!! so then i tried to print it with white PLA disaster!!! did all the calibrations etc etc etc no good… then i tried it with green ABS and it printed but the detail is very bad…. i dont know what to do i cannot get small prints with details to come out any good, they were all printed in standard “fine” settings…

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[3peaksliteParticipant]

I have been using 3d Printers since the 90’s

in the Automotive & Aerospace industries!

Here is a Stainless steel watch strap example I have had since 2009 it has a wall thickness of 0.15mm is extremely strong & there is no assembly it was printed in one go, fully functional.

This is the SLS technique & is no desktop machine.

from what I have seen the Ultimaker is a very good machine!

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Hi Folks,

I am having a number of problems with my printer. I have managed to fix a few, but some are driving me nuts. I hope someone out there can help me out.

Problems in no particular order:

1) The extruder keeps stripping the filament and stops feeding when I use ABS, PLA seems fine. I tightened the tensioners on the extruder and it ended up popping the bowden tube out. I realized that I should have gone loose and let it slip a little.

2) The bowden tube keeps popping out. I cut a bit off the end, but it still wont stay (Picture attached because I think its a good picture). I dont think I can cut much more off the tube so I “fixed” that problem with an M2.5 nut and a hand full of zip ties.

3) My bed wont heat past 115. It did at first, but not any more. I had to change my profiles or the print would never start.

4)Every so often I get a layer that puts out way to much material. I am using the fine setting because it is much worse in the normal setting. (Picture attached)

5) Sometimes the Y axis will be way off. It just goes off once and then stays off (Picture attached) . This example is off by 3mm

I know I have some hardware issues and I am willing to fix those, but Am I also having problems with my slicer? Does anyone else have these problems? Has anyone found any work-arounds/suggestions for a slicer that works?

Thanks for any help you can give.

-TokyoSuits

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[unic8Participant]

That sounds really hard. I think everybody should understand your point, especially CEL. For me this forum is really important because at first I also thought I’m alone with all my topics on the Robox.

Keep posting all you experiences … the good and the bad

I also received other replacement parts like the new bowden tube contruction and a PEI sheet (since my original one was heavily bent). Chris White processed my ticket at this time and he did all his best to get my problems solved as fast and easy as possible. Even on sundays he answered my messages on tickets.

I believe CEL had some trouble in the last months but they are always trying to get everyone satisfied. Of course I also experienced some problems with changing supporters (Pete, Peter and then Chris for the same tickets) but I’m always optimistic since I got most of my problems solved.

The response time should be better in some cases - for me right now with my defective print head - but overall I’m willing to continue my “adventure” with CEL and Robox because it is my first 3D printing experience and it would be to early to give up this product.

Many things have been developed (software and hardware) since the shipment of the Kickstarter units. Chris also wrote me some lines beside the typical support responses in the tickets and it seems to me that everybody at CEL has a good understanding what we - the customers - expect from them. They are not always able to meet this demand but they are getting better and better.

[stevnkrnParticipant]

I wish I could be as optimistic as you unic8, but I live in the USA and it takes even longer, and the shipping is even more expensive. It costs over $50 to ship with tracking to CEL from the US and CEL has made it very clear that they do not pay return shipping costs. I’ve spent over $100 returning defective parts to CEL only to get defective parts in return. It also has taken at least three weeks to gets parts there and another three weeks to get parts back to me. Even if they do respond to my ticket in early January, the best can hope for is having a working machine again sometime in the second half of February. Every time something goes wrong it has taken a good two months from ticket to replacement parts. I don’t know how anyone could expect to find that acceptable. I’ve had so much trouble that I even offered to return my machine for a refund. I was told in no uncertain terms that CEL will not refund money to Kickstarter backers because they’ve already spent the money. So I’m stuck with a boat anchor of a 3D printer that continues to cost me money. All I feel I can do is inform others so they can make a wise purchase decision. So far for me the Robox has been nothing but a disappointment.