This topic contains 13 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by 
BHudson 2 hours, 46 minutes ago.
-
Posts
-
@micky3D You can turn the printer off to clear the command and then turn it back on. The head fan will cool the head down to the safe temperature and you can then run the “Eject Stuck Filament” routine. Turning off the printer with the head hot will cause damage to the filament in the head and that will in turn cause the head to become jammed. Turning the Robox off and then on again shortly afterward and letting the head cool will not damage the Robox.
If the eject stuck filament routine doesn’t work, you will need to open a ticket with CEL.
I operate two Betas and one Production Robox.
@micky3d I would use the gray filament control buttons that appear in AutoMaker over the top of the reel picture to manually drive the filament in the negative direction. If the filament moves, run those buttons repeatedly until you can pull the filament out or it stops moving. You can pull pretty hard on the filament without damaging the extruder; 5 or 6 pounds of force won’t hurt it and might pop the last little bit out of the extruder.
What can happen now is that you have a string of filament with a blob on it or just a long string that gets caught up in the Bowden tube and/or the extruder. There is a process to clear this string correctly but it involves manually heating the head and that involves G-Code and you can damage your system if you aren’t careful. If you remove the head you may find a long, thin string still attached to the head. If that is the case, break the string off with about an inch or so protruding and you will have to remount the head and do the manual heat process.
If it does not move, there is something stuck in the extruder and you will need to raise a ticket to get authorization to attempt to clear the extruder since this will involve partial disassembly of the unit.
I operate two Betas and one Production Robox.
I found eject routine that works for me everytime: Start print, stop it just before head temp is high enough and then hit eject.
@micky3d The ambient temperature shouldn’t be affecting the purge, though if is is displaying that low, there is a problem with the ambient temperature sensor.
Can you try another print? You don’t need to purge if the material is the same. If you still cannot get the print to go, then you will need to open a ticket and will probably have to return the printer for service.
I operate two Betas and one Production Robox.
@bhudson well I tried to start a new print and it told me I needed to do a purge.. so I selected this and the same thing happened as when I did it manually… it got stuck at the 11% stage again… nothing happening… So I cancelled that and it went back to the main display but didn’t turn off the head or bed temperature… So a power down cycle was required to get the printer back under control and cooling down.
I then tried the print again and this time selected the (Not Recommended) ignore purge option. It is now printing the test item!!!
So I will see how this print turns out… The ambient temp is still showing -83C now!!! So as you say, there is probably a problem with the sensor so I will raise a ticket for that!
Ok…. while writing this the printer has stopped on layer 8/335 (13%). It is now just sitting there, no error messages, status showing ‘Printing’, solid green led on the print reel, White led on the print head, Pause Icon available on the main display, Nozzle Temp = 239C, Bed Temp = 120C, Ambient -65C, Head Fan running, I can still communicate with he printer i.e I can change the colour of the LED from Blue to Red… been 5min now, no change… trying the pause option… Leds are flashing… try to resume… Solid LEDs no printing…. looks like I will have to cancel the print… Progress bar jumps to 71% and temperatures are coming down… Oh well, looks like a support ticket will have to be made anyhow
Thanks again for all your help, it is most appreciated.. I will let you know what happens….
I had an issue with the head printing which gave various extrusion errors, namely as print progressed the printer would gradually swap nozzles, I got many different error messages. This was solved by a new printed circuit board in the head assembly.
The fact that you are reading extremely low ambient temperatures indicates that the thermistor or connection is is open circuit, I believe this is mounted on the head printed circuit board and may indicate that there is a connection issue with the flat flexi-cable to the print head. The connectors used for this are dedicate and need precise alignment, it is worth checking to see if the connection is properly attached.
Otherwise I recommend that you raise a ticket with CEL
John
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.
