Search Results for 'wood'

[DangerousThingParticipant]

I live in State College, PA US, where static electricity is somewhat of a myth. Somebody who lived here told me “to pull the other one” once when I told him a story about static electricity.

OK, it isn’t quite that damp: for at least two weeks most winters the humidity goes down low enough to get a shock if you work at it.

So basically we have a lot of humidity.

Right now I’m using the advice I got from Taulman3d.com, which is a 5 gallon bucket with an rod through it, and some holes in the lid to pass the filament through. I have a steel bucket and I haven’t drilled the holes yet.

Would a plastic bucket be better? It would certainly be easier to drill the holes in, bit I figure I can use a Dremel to drill pilot holes at high speed, and then use my normal drill and keep increasing the size of the bits.

They also suggested a 40 watt light bulb, but if I were doing that I would probably make something out plywood to do this.

A little learning is a dangerous thing.

[irawansParticipant]

I never tried vapour, but I tried sanding it. Also it depends on the filament. PLA and ABS has different method. As far as I know, PLA can only smoother by sanding it. I attached 2 picture of my printed items. The first one is Polymakr Polywood which is not good if you sanding it, because you want to have wood feel. When sanding it, it is gone.. The second picture, [Green] Robox Chrooma Green, 1 corner I sanded it, the other is not. Then the “swiss army” style key holder [Red] is PLA. I sanded and paint it. I have used it for 2 year, so there are so much scratch. Hope this help, maybe others have additional info?

 

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[irawansParticipant]

@robcha : you could see the result from the link below. I just put the Chroma Green from CEL profile, and change the Temperature to 210C.

http://www.cel-robox.com/forums/topic/polywood-from-polymakr/

[RobertoParticipant]

@adrenaline : I’d also be interested in seeing the polywood prints and what settings you used!

[Anonymous]

That’s interesting, I guess it’ll be similar to PLA. I just wondered if the foamy texture made it a bit weaker. PolyMakr do print some amazing images of prints done in coloured polywood that have incredibly smooth textures - you wouldn’t know it was FDM/FFF printed.

[StreatSiParticipant]

very nice. have some laywood i want to try when i get my head back..

While I am waiting some more filaments from cel-robox ( I have ordered but not yet received it, even my order disappear from my account.. strange.), I printed with PolyWood from Polymakr. The filament is really promising, and smell nice :D.

Printed: Draft, 210C, 20% infill.

• This topic was modified 2 months, 1 week ago by  irawans.
• This topic was modified 2 months, 1 week ago by  irawans.
• This topic was modified 2 months, 1 week ago by  irawans.

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[WellmeadowParticipant]

I found that the noise depends to some extent on the surface it is on. At one point I had it on the dining table and it must have used the wooden surface as a giant loud speaker and it was quite audible some distance away. I now have it in the conservatory out of the way, and on a small table and it is much better.

There was a discussion on this in another thread, and someone suggested some small AV feet. Another project for the To Do list?

Trying to spread the word about 3D printing to small and medium sized businesses in the West Midlands.

[AdrenalineParticipant]

@biscuitlad, yeah sorry about that. Wrong place to host my pics :D. I printed a few more things with polywood, I’m very happy with how it prints with the robox. I’ll snap some pics if I have the time.

[AdrenalineParticipant]

I’m printing PolyWood right now. It’s looking really nice so far:

Some hair like thingies here and there, but to my eyes it looks very very good so far (the pic is with a 100mm macro lens). Used the temps they give on the material sheet. reduced the flow of the 0.8 nozzle to 90%. It was oozing too much material when printing the obligatory pyramid. Otherwise its a Normal profile. I’ll post a pic when (if) the print finishes.

[PaulParticipant]

The Ormerod I use does have an upgraded bed (metal not wood) and I also have a boon replacement too (metal not plastic), I’ve just not put the latter on yet. I also use the (old) IR sensor to bed level. I did try slowing down the layers on one of the marvins but it didn’t seem to help (it made the bridging worse in places as it allowed it to sag). Maybe a setting to pause or lift the head off but keep it over the layer so the fan airflow can cool it for a few seconds?

 

P.S. I will check the settings I used to make the Ormerod prints as I think the layer height might be larger than 100 microns for the spaceship as I look at it.

• This reply was modified 2 months, 3 weeks ago by  Paul.

[StreatSiParticipant]

personally i have only had one real nozzle blockage and that was after changing from using PLA to ABS, typically the first and i think only time i did use PLA.

the 0.3 nozzle got blocked and i had to do the manual purge about 10 times varying the temperature before getting it to unblock. since then have just used abs & taulman T glaze and touch wood haven’t had a blockage since. alwasy do a couple of purges when changing material now though..